HomeClimbingBombay Sapphire

Bombay Sapphire: A Bold Three-Pitch Climb in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad
three-pitch
arete
mixed protection
technical
Squamish granite
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Bombay Sapphire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bombay Sapphire offers a compelling three-pitch trad climb in Squamish, weaving classic crack climbing with a unique arete finish. Its blend of technical moves and solid protection makes it a must-try for climbers seeking a fresh challenge in a legendary setting."

Bombay Sapphire: A Bold Three-Pitch Climb in Squamish

Bombay Sapphire stands out as a compelling three-pitch traditional climb located on the renowned Martini Pinnacle in Squamish, British Columbia. Beginning with the familiar footsteps of Warriors of the Wasteland, the route offers a fresh twist by breaking right early on, steering climbers toward the arete that crowns the formation. The approach demands a sharp focus as you begin on the first one and a half pitches of Warriors of the Wasteland, a classic in its own right, but then diverge onto less-traveled stone.

The opening pitch matches the initial moves of Warriors of the Wasteland, presenting strong jams and delicate stemming where your hands and feet read the granite’s textures. The granite here is clean, bold, and demands precision—nothing is given, yet everything is attainable with crisp technique. Moving into pitch two, the climb ascends a stem crux that tests core tension and balance, before easing onto a smoother slab where a few well-placed bolts catch the rope. This break in intensity allows a brief moment of respite before you reach a solid belay anchor at the pitch’s end, just as the wall readies itself to leap into steeper terrain.

The final pitch is a pure test of stamina and creativity, threading up a fully bolted arete that backs itself with vertical slabs. The rock feels alive here, edges whispering for careful footwork, crimps calling out for quiet strength. Every move challenges your ability to read the stone and adjust your body in sync with the offering holds. The climbing demands a mixture of finesse and power, pushing you to solve problems on the fly while fully immersed in the exposed panorama of Squamish’s vast wilderness.

Descending requires a deliberate double rappel: first, a 30-meter drop to anchors linked to "Shaken, Not Stirred," a neighboring 5.11b route that stands as a testament to the area’s technical diversity, then a longer 60-meter rappel that brings you safely back to the base near Freeway. Gear-wise, doubles up to 2-inch cams are necessary, allowing placements in the varied crack systems, while bolts ease protection on the bolted sections of pitch three.

A rarely traveled gem, Bombay Sapphire presents a climbing experience that blends the character of Squamish’s classic granite with the freshness of a unique exit line. It asks for commitment and respect for the rock but rewards with movement that’s as satisfying as the views that stretch out beneath you. Plan your climb with attention to conditions, bring sturdy footwear for the approach trail, and prepare for a mixture of crack jams, stemming, and technical face moves that define this route’s engaging profile.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose flakes near the belay anchors on pitch two and avoid climbing in wet conditions, as the slabby sections become dangerously slick. The rappels require attention to anchor reliability and rope management to safely descend the long rappel off the arete.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the arete, as it faces southwest and heats up quickly.

Prepare for a 30m rappel to a secondary anchor station before the longer 60m rappel to the base.

The approach trail can be slick when wet; sturdy footwear with strong grip is essential.

Bring a moderate rack focused on larger cams for the crack sections and doubled smaller sizes for variable placements.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11+ rating fits the route’s sustained technical moves and stem crux on pitch two, which can feel stiff if stemming isn’t practiced. The fully bolted final pitch provides climbing challenge with varied techniques but is less demanding on protection, adding a welcome rhythm shift. Overall, the grade is solid for the area and comparable to other moderate to hard climbs on Martini Pinnacle.

Gear Requirements

Carry doubles up to 2-inch cams to secure placements along the traditional crack sections, while a handful of bolts protect more technical, slabby terrain on pitch two and fully cover the arete climb on pitch three.

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Tags

trad
three-pitch
arete
mixed protection
technical
Squamish granite