HomeClimbingBoi-oi-oi-ing!

Boi-oi-oi-ing! Trad Climb on Orange Pillar, Patricia Bowl

Mammoth Lakes,California ,United States
hand crack
multi-pitch
trad
Sierra granite
endurance
bolted anchors
Grade: 5.10a
Length: 340 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Boi-oi-oi-ing!
Aspect
South Facing

Boi-oi-oi-ing!

5.10a, Trad

Mammoth Lakes

California ,United States

Overview

"Boi-oi-oi-ing! is a compelling three-pitch trad climb on the blocky Orange Pillar in Patricia Bowl. With sustained hand jams and a powerful crack system, this route challenges climbers ready for technical endurance set amidst the rugged Sierra Eastside."

Boi-oi-oi-ing! Trad Climb on Orange Pillar, Patricia Bowl

Boi-oi-oi-ing! offers a powerful trad climbing experience anchored in the rugged heart of California's Sierra Eastside, within the renowned Mammoth Lakes Area. Beginning on the formidable Orange Pillar, this route challenges climbers with a mix of technical hand jams and sustained crack climbing across three distinct pitches. The first pitch cuts up the right flank of a massive wedged block, immediately demanding precision as you navigate a 25-foot high obstacle before settling into a network of parallel cracks. This section requires careful footwork and focused endurance to reach the well-protected bolted anchor at 85 feet.

Pitch two takes you slightly left of the anchor, opening into a sustained 165-foot hand jamming sequence. This pitch demands strong finger and hand strength with multiple crack options—if uncertain, staying left tends to offer more secure holds. The crack system here is complex but rewarding, offering both a physical and tactical challenge as you choose your path. The protection involves doubling up cams from finger to fist size, and some climbers add extra hand or thin hand cams for reassurance. The steady motion of climbing these cracks carves rhythm into the effort.

The final pitch, rated 5.9, is less appealing due to loose rock and fragile holds, and climbers typically avoid it for safety reasons. Fixed gear has been left in place for those who choose to descend using rappel.

Approaching the climb means walking through Patricia Bowl’s high Sierra landscape, a mix of forested stretches and rugged granite terrain. The area’s remoteness gives a quiet backdrop unlike busier climbing spots, inviting focus and connection to the stone. The route’s total length of 340 feet is tall enough to feel adventurous, yet manageable for intermediate to advanced trad climbers prepared for crack climbing techniques.

Timing your ascent for early morning or late afternoon is wise—these windows avoid the intense midday sun that can bake the orange-hued pillar, especially in summer. The climb faces a favorable aspect that catches light and shadow, lending clear visibility to hand placements and protection spots.

Careful gear selection is crucial here: doubles of cams from finger through fist sizes help build protection quickly, while a few additional hand-sized pieces can secure tricky or extended placements. The bolted anchors provide confidence at belay stations, but the nature of the crack climbing demands constant assessment of rock stability and gear quality.

Descending requires rappelling from fixed anchors left for the third pitch, but be mindful of fragile rock and loose debris during the rappel. Staying alert on this step ensures a safe exit after a demanding climb.

For climbers looking to test endurance on sustained crack climbs without the interruption of sport bolts, Boi-oi-oi-ing! on Orange Pillar offers a route that balances hard technical moves with classic Sierra granite adventure. This route stands as a rewarding goal for those ready to engage deeply with hand jams and crack tactics, enveloped in the quiet grandeur of California’s high country.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and fragile holds on the third pitch create a significant hazard; refrain from climbing this section if possible and use fixed anchors for rappel. Throughout the route, continuously check gear placements in cracks for stability, and beware of sun-baked rock that can increase slipperiness midday.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10a
TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length340 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense midday sun on the pillar.

Doubles of small to medium cams make pro placements more reliable.

Avoid the third pitch due to loose rock; plan your descent accordingly.

Test all hand jams carefully—some rock can be brittle in spots.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating fairly reflects the technical demands of sustained hand jams on pitch two, where continuous crack climbing raises the effort above the numeric grade. The first pitch also packs a punch with its tough moves off the ground, while the third pitch drops in difficulty but is discouraged due to rock quality. Compared to nearby Patricia Bowl routes, Boi-oi-oi-ing! offers a solid challenge that slightly ups the ante for sustained crack endurance.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of cams doubled from finger to fist size, adding a few extra hand or thin hand cams for backup placements. Bolted anchors provide solid belays, but use careful judgement on protection placement along the cracks.

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Tags

hand crack
multi-pitch
trad
Sierra granite
endurance
bolted anchors