"Bogey unfolds as a concise yet demanding 50-foot sport route on clean granite in The Emeralds near Lake Tahoe. Perfect for intermediate climbers, it blends technical face climbing with a crack variation and offers reliable bolted protection for confident ascents."
Bogey is a compact, engaging sport climb situated within the vibrant climbing pockets of The Emeralds, just west of the Lake Tahoe basin. This route offers a well-bolted 50-foot pitch that challenges climbers with a clean face and a distinct crack system running along the right side. The rock here feels solid yet textured, providing confident footholds against a backdrop of pine-speckled granite. The climb’s subtle overhang demands controlled movements and precise footwork, especially if you opt for the bolder variation which stays out of the crack, pushing difficulties towards 5.10 and above.
The entry to Bogey is straightforward, making it accessible for intermediate climbers eager to sharpen their lead sport climbing skills. The line moves steadily upward with four-bolt protection spaced to encourage smooth clipping rhythm and focus on body positioning. As you ascend, sunlight filters through intermittent branches, warming the rock and illuminating the subtle finger pockets and edges that define this line’s character.
The approach is an easy 10-15 minute stroll from the closest parking at the Benches area, crossing gentle forest floor covered in pine needles and occasional wildflowers. This quiet enclave offers both shade in the morning and afternoon sun as the wall faces slightly west, making spring and fall the ideal seasons for tackling Bogey comfortably. Remember to bring shoes with sticky rubber to stick cleanly on the face’s delicate edges and a chalk bag for those moments where friction is king.
Beyond the climb itself, The Emeralds area rewards visitors with sweeping views of the Sierra Nevada foothills and the distant glint of Lake Tahoe’s blue waters. The relative remoteness of the corridor provides a peaceful escape from more crowded Tahoe climbing spots. After topping out, you can set up your rappels on the chain anchor—well maintained and reliable—which swiftly gets you back to the forest floor without scramble or uncertain downclimbing.
For safety, be mindful that the route is short but requires attentive clipping on bolts spaced to encourage controlled pacing rather than speed. The rock quality is generally excellent, but always check for loose holds especially on the crack’s edges before committing. Given its moderate rating and solid protection, Bogey makes a perfect training ground for climbers stepping up from 5.7 terrain and ready to challenge their face climbing endurance and crack technique.
While the rock quality is solid, climbers should test holds near the crack’s edges on their first ascent attempt. Bolt spacing requires careful clipping and controlled moves to avoid swing falls, especially on the more challenging variation. Always double-check the fixed chain anchor before rappelling.
Approach takes about 10-15 minutes from Benches parking—trail is well-marked and mostly flat.
Best climbed in spring or fall to avoid heat; wall faces slightly west offering afternoon sun.
Shoes with excellent toe sensitivity improve grip on small face holds.
Check bolts and chain anchor for security before starting the climb.
Four bolts protect the entire length, leading to a chain anchor for descent. Bring sport climbing draws and shoes suited for delicate edging on granite.
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