"Blueberry offers a varied single-pitch trad climb on Cochrane Lane Cliffs featuring solid cracks, a left-hand traverse beneath a roof, and a rewarding flaring chimney finish. Ideal for trad climbers honing technique, this route balances accessible yet engaging moves with excellent gear placements throughout."
Blueberry presents a compelling day out on the rocky faces of Cochrane Lane Cliffs, just outside the quiet community of Welsford, New Brunswick. This single-pitch trad climb entices adventurers with its changing terrain and straightforward but engaging moves. Starting with a steadily rising corner system, the route immediately tests your ability to read the rock and place protection with confidence. A subtle left traverse under a moderate roof rewards careful footwork and solid holds, while excellent gear placements throughout the climb allow climbers to protect their moves with a calm mind. A #4 Camalot can be convenient here, though its absence won't hinder progress — there are reliable placements for smaller gear sizes. Moving beyond the roof, the route opens into a broad corner crack, a natural feature that leads to a roomy ledge. This resting spot reveals sweeping views across the valley and invites a moment of pause before tackling the next section.
The climb resumes with a graceful leftward traverse along this ledge, leading into a flaring chimney that demands smooth body positioning and steady breathing. Chimneys always create a physical dialogue between climber and rock — here, the gently widening walls push you to trust your technique while letting the stone guide your ascent. Finishing the chimney leads to another ledge, where a quick right step sets you up for the final stretch of easier scrambling ground to the top. Throughout, Blueberry blends technical moves with accessible crack climbing, making it a favorite for those looking to sharpen trad skills and revel in classic rock features.
The approach to the cliff is accessible via well-marked trails, making it a suitable outing for those who prefer a straightforward walk-in without heavy bushwhacking. Planning your gear carefully can ease the climb dramatically; a single rack up to 4 inches covers all needed placements, minimizing pack weight. Tree anchors at the top offer a reliable and natural rappel option or a straightforward walk-off descent.
Early spring to late fall offers the best weather window here — the cliff faces southeast, allowing morning sun to warm the rock before the heat of midday. This exposure also protects from lingering storm moisture in colder months but requires vigilance for sudden weather changes typical in the region. Layered clothing and ample hydration are essential, especially on sunny days when exposure to wind is limited.
Blueberry combines thoughtful movement, gear confidence, and scenic mid-climb rests, wrapping it all in the steady pulse of the New Brunswick outdoors. Whether you're brushing up on crack technique or seeking a reliable 5.9 with character, this route rewards preparation with an engaging and satisfying day on the rock.
The route features vertical chimney climbing and traverses with exposure; ensure solid gear placements and maintain careful footwork. Tree anchors are reliable but check for stability before rappelling. Watch for wet rock after rain, especially in shaded chimney sections.
Start early to catch morning sun warming the southeast-facing wall.
Bring a #4 Camalot if you have one for added ease in the tricky roof section.
Wear sticky-soled shoes for secure footwork on the traverse and chimney.
Hydrate well and pack layers due to variable conditions on the rock.
A single rack of cams up to 4 inches is sufficient, with a #4 Camalot useful but not mandatory. Tree anchor at the top provides a secure rappel point.
Upload your photos of Blueberry and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.