HomeClimbingBlue Moon

Blue Moon: A Balanced Introduction to Ophir Wall’s Slick Rock

Telluride, Colorado USA
slick rock
rounded arete
bolt anchor
moderate
light protection
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Blue Moon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blue Moon offers a manageable single-pitch climb on Ophir Wall’s slick sandstone, balancing approachable protection with a test of delicate footwork. Ideal for climbers preparing to explore the Tennis Shoe Traverse ledges, it delivers a memorable introduction to the rock’s unique texture."

Blue Moon: A Balanced Introduction to Ophir Wall’s Slick Rock

Blue Moon offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to the unique character of Ophir Wall’s slick Colorado sandstone. Situated on the upper reaches of the Main Wall, this single-pitch route threads its way just right of the prominent left-facing dihedral known as Hot Wee Wee, beneath the impressive lower face where Y-Crack stands sentinel. The climb unfolds along a rounded arete that often wears a sheen of moisture, requiring focused footwork and a calm approach to the slick, sometimes deceptive stone.

Spanning roughly 100 feet, Blue Moon negotiates a gentle line up and rightward past four well-placed bolts before ending at a bolt anchor. The protection is light—mostly small nuts and cams suffice—but the bolts provide a reliable safety net for those acclimating to the area’s sometimes tricky rock texture. This route acts as a practical stepping stone for climbers aiming to reach the Tennis Shoe Traverse ledge system overhead, offering a manageable challenge without overwhelming exposure.

The surrounding environment embraces you with open views of the Telluride/Norwood region’s rugged grandeur, while the rock’s cool touch and occasional dampness keep you attentive to the subtle changes underfoot. Though the climb’s moderate 5.8 rating suggests approachability, the slick surfaces demand deliberate movements and solid footwear to maintain secure footing. For those less familiar with Ophir Wall’s nuances, Blue Moon is a valuable primer before committing to more demanding lines higher on the face.

Plan your ascent during dry spells for optimal friction and avoid early mornings when lingering moisture can obscure holds. A light rack focusing on smaller gear suits the route well, and the presence of bolts lessens the need for heavy placements. After reaching the anchor, climbers can choose to rap back or explore additional pitches leading further into Ophir Wall’s complex ledge system.

Blue Moon invites climbers to embrace the deliberate rhythm of slick rock climbing—a blend of mental focus, subtle technique, and measured exposure. From the moment your fingers brush the polished arete to the final clip into the anchor bolts, this route balances adventure and accessibility, making it a worthwhile objective for those navigating Ophir’s challenging grit.

Climber Safety

Rock can hold residual moisture, making some sections notably slippery; proceed cautiously and avoid climbing during or immediately after rain. The ledge anchor is solid, but double-check knots and rap gear before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Avoid early morning ascents to reduce slickness caused by overnight moisture.

Use sticky-soled shoes for better grip on the rounded arete.

Consider bringing a light rack; heavy gear is unnecessary due to bolt placements.

Scout the anchor top rope option for safer descent or extending the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Blue Moon strikes a balance between easy rock climbing and the subtle challenges of variable friction. The grade feels true to form, neither soft nor overly stiff, although the slick surfaces require careful footing that can amplify perceived difficulty. Compared to other routes on Ophir Wall, it is a forgiving starting point, apt for building confidence.

Gear Requirements

A light standard rack focusing on small cams and nuts is sufficient. Four bolts are strategically placed along the route, ending in a bolt anchor.

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Tags

slick rock
rounded arete
bolt anchor
moderate
light protection