"Blown Out challenges climbers with a short, intense sequence of steep moves beneath a roof before rewarding them with a clean splitter finger crack that runs to the top. This 5.9 trad climb at Foothill Crag offers a compact test of gear judgment and technique just outside Ojai, California."
Blown Out at Foothill Crag, often simply called "The Foot," stands as a no-nonsense single-pitch trad climb that blends a bold approach with a striking finish. Located just off Hwy 33 near Ojai on California’s Central Coast, this route serves up an experience that’s as much about managing risk as it is about enjoying the rock’s raw character. The climb begins down and to the left of a prominent overhanging roof, where you face a short sequence of steep, dynamic moves on solid jugs. These moves demand confidence; protection is limited here, so precision and calm on the wall pay off. The bolt perched at the roof's lip is your lifeline, giving you a safe clip before you move onto a ledge that offers brief respite and a chance to prepare for the climb’s highlight.
The upper section reveals a clean, eye-catching finger splitter crack slicing vertically to the top. This crack, while visually inviting, calls for smaller cams and nuts—around a 0.5 Camalot and midsize nut—to protect the ascent. Placements here feel marginal, allowing the rock to stay honest, demanding subtle gear judgment and solid finger strength. The crack climbs straight and true, pushing the climber to find both rhythm and mental composure as the wall opens up above the roof.
Foothill Crag itself presents an austere granite environment characterized by rugged walls and sparse vegetation. The approach is straightforward but worth noting: a short walk through sun-dappled scrubland brings you to the base, where the air carries the crisp scent of chaparral warmed by the central Californian sun. Heading up during cooler mornings is ideal to avoid overheating on exposed rock surfaces, while afternoons see the wall bask in sun, warming the stone but also increasing fatigue.
Expect a climb length of about 40 feet, with a YDS 5.9 difficulty that feels more commander-of-your-nerves than purely physical. The rating holds firm here, with the crux residing in the roof moves and the commitment required on sparse gear near the top. This climb doesn’t yield to the casual; it rewards focus and a willingness to trust your gear and ability. It’s a perfect choice for climbers wanting to sharpen their traditional climbing skills in a compact yet demanding setting.
The descent is simple—a short walk off the trail back to the parking area means less time coming down and more time gearing up for your next adventure. Pack light but smart: finger tape won’t be needed here, but sturdy shoes and a relaxed mental state will carry you through.
For those drawn to climbs that combine a measured mental edge with the satisfaction of clean, challenging climbing, Blown Out at Foothill Crag provides a compelling test amid the stark beauty of California’s foothill landscapes.
Be cautious on the steep moves below the roof due to sparse protection; a fall here could be serious. Double-check your gear placements in the upper crack, as the small cams and nuts have limited bite, and the ledge below demands clean execution.
Approach early in the morning for cooler rock conditions and better friction.
Trust your bolt clip at the roof—protection is sparse on the initial moves.
Use fingers precisely on the splitter crack; small cams and nuts are essential for safety.
Leave extra time to spot the climbing line; the roof can feel intimidating at first sight.
Bring a quickdraw for the bolt protecting the steep roof move. For the top splitter crack, pack smaller gear around a 0.5 Camalot and a medium nut; placements are marginal but usable. Avoid finger tape as the crack is clean and playable.
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