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Bloodymir at Trashcan Rock

Joshua Tree, California United States
hand crack
bolt start
steep slab
desert climbing
single pitch
awkward protection
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bloodymir
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bloodymir is a compact trad climb on Trashcan Rock’s West Face that blends steep slab moves with a tricky left-slanting hand crack. Its compact challenge is perfect for climbers looking to finesse awkward placements in a classic Joshua Tree setting."

Bloodymir at Trashcan Rock

Bloodymir cuts a striking silhouette on the West Face of Trashcan Rock, inviting climbers into a compact but demanding trad experience. The route begins amid the rough textures of a steep slab, where body tension and precise footwork become crucial immediately. As you move from the start, a bolt anchors the initial challenge, but it’s the left-slanting hand crack that truly defines the climb’s character. This crack demands more than brute strength; it’s an awkward squeeze that tests your ability to find comfort in awkward placements and subtle balance adjustments. Protection placement here feels limited—the rock forces you to make quick, thoughtful decisions, transforming each move into a mental puzzle paired to the physical grind.

Set within the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park, the area around Trashcan Rock bristles with a raw desert energy. The dry air carries the faint rustle of sparse brush, and the sun casts bold shadows that shift the rock’s personality throughout the day. Though only 30 feet in length, Bloodymir’s vertical face offers a concentrated encounter with both rock and technique. The climb’s single pitch means your pause is brief but intense — a compact trial with a payoff in poise and dexterity.

For climbers seeking a practical challenge, Bloodymir demands standard trad gear, utilizing a modest rack alongside a solitary pre-placed bolt. This modest protection setup emphasizes the importance of solid gear judgment and smooth placements, especially on the hand crack section that dares you to trust your fingers and feet. The approach to Trashcan Rock is straightforward, situated within a well-known climbing zone that balances solitude with accessibility.

This route is a compelling choice for those who want to sharpen crack skills without embarking on a multi-pitch commitment. Whether you’re refining hand jams or practicing awkward gear placements in a real-world setting, Bloodymir offers a bite-sized mission that sharpens technique while delivering the unmistakable feel of Joshua Tree’s storied granite.

Timing your climb for morning to midday will help avoid the harsh afternoon sun, which tends to bake the rock and sap energy quickly. Water and sunscreen are essential here — the desert environment doesn’t forgive hydration mistakes. Footwear with sticky rubber and sensitivity will allow better contact on the slab and within fissures, helping make each move efficient and confident. Though brief, Bloodymir’s unique challenges leave a fresh impression, marking a small but memorable highlight on any Joshua Tree itinerary.

Climber Safety

Protection on the hand crack is limited and can feel insecure; take time to assess each piece carefully. The rock is generally solid, but the crack’s awkward angle often forces stretched placements. Additionally, the area sees strong sun exposure—vigilance against heat exhaustion is critical.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on the exposed slab.

Bring sticky-soled shoes for better friction on the steep face.

Hydrate thoroughly—the desert dries you out fast even on cooler days.

Double-check your gear placements on the hand crack; pro can be sparse and tricky.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While graded 5.9, Bloodymir feels slightly stiffer due to the awkward hand crack and sparse protection. The rating doesn’t capture the mental edge required for gear placements, making it a satisfying test for intermediate trad climbers looking for finesse rather than power. Compared to other Joshua Tree classics, this route is a short but sharp technical workout.

Gear Requirements

This climb calls for a standard trad rack supplemented by a single bolt at the start. Protection on the hand crack requires thoughtful placement and attention to rock quality.

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Tags

hand crack
bolt start
steep slab
desert climbing
single pitch
awkward protection