HomeClimbingBloody Mess

Bloody Mess at Rattlesnake Point East Cliff

Milton, Canada
easy trad
single pitch
rope drag
quiet climb
top-out crack
Length: ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bloody Mess
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bloody Mess is a short, easy trad climb at Rattlesnake Point’s East Cliff, perfect for newcomers seeking quieter rock and straightforward crack climbing. Its gentle 5.5 rating and single pitch offer a relaxed climb with important rope management considerations near the top-out."

Bloody Mess at Rattlesnake Point East Cliff

Bloody Mess offers a straightforward introduction to trad climbing on the quieter East Cliff of Rattlesnake Point. At just one pitch and rated a gentle 5.5, it’s an approachable climb that invites those new to trad gear to gain confidence away from the busiest lines. The rock stands firm beneath your fingers, with a few small cracks that demand careful attention—especially near the top-out, where your rope has a tendency to catch in a narrow notch. The route’s brevity and modest difficulty make it perfect for a quick morning send or an easy warm-up before exploring more challenging climbs in the area.

The East Cliff’s relative calm compared to the busier West side brings a quieter, more focused atmosphere. Here, the rock face is less worn from heavy traffic, preserving sharper edges and cleaner cracks. The climb demands some preparation: long runners are essential to keep your rope from dragging or snagging on the ledge just shy of the anchors. Speaking of anchors, they sit high above the ledge, which provides a safe but remote feel and means a careful backup strategy is key.

Access to Bloody Mess is a breeze, with well-marked trails guiding you through mixed deciduous forest. The approach wanders lightly over packed dirt and scattered rock until you stand beneath the slabby wall that hosts this classic route. Being located in Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area, the environment balances accessibility with a rugged natural charm—expect the occasional call of birds above and gentle breezes ruffling the leaves around. The exposure is minimal, so even cooler days bring steady warmth on this east-facing wall.

Climbers should prioritize long runners and smooth rope management techniques to navigate the tricky top-out section safely. Though the route is short and rated on the easy side, the few technical details in protection and rope handling reward climbers who arrive prepared. Pair this climb with a day spent exploring other routes within the Golden Horseshoe region, known for its diversity of sport and trad options nestled amid the rolling Ontario hills. Bloody Mess is an inviting option for beginners hungry for accessible crack climbing and more seasoned climbers looking for a relaxed afternoon ascent off the beaten path.

Climber Safety

Anchors are set quite far from the top-out ledge, increasing potential for rope drag and snagging on a narrow crack. Ensure your runners are long enough and double-check placements before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Use long runners to avoid rope catching on the top-out crack.

This route sees less traffic—ideal for those wanting a quieter climb.

Approach is short and easy; trailhead GPS is 43.4756, -79.91183.

Check rope management carefully when topping out to avoid hangups.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.5
Quality
Consensus:The 5.5 rating is genuine and accessible for beginners; this climb has minimal cruxes but watch for the tricky rope drag near the top. Compared to nearby Rattlesnake Point routes, Bloody Mess feels slightly softer in difficulty yet still demands thoughtful protection placement.

Gear Requirements

Anchors are positioned well above the ledge, necessitating the use of long runners to prevent rope drag and sticking near the top-out crack. Bring standard trad protection gear suitable for 5.5 cracks and be prepared for a single-pitch climb.

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Tags

easy trad
single pitch
rope drag
quiet climb
top-out crack