HomeClimbingBloody Finger

Bloody Finger: A Gritty Testpiece in Harrison Bluffs

Fraser Valley, Canada
finger crack
bouldery
crux
single pitch
trad climbing
Harrison Bluffs
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bloody Finger
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bloody Finger packs a punch with its sharp finger crack and bouldery crux, nestled on a rugged ledge within Harrison Bluffs. This 50-foot trad route demands crisp technique and thoughtful gear placements, rewarding climbers seeking a compact but intense challenge."

Bloody Finger: A Gritty Testpiece in Harrison Bluffs

Bloody Finger stands as a raw and demanding climb in the Wayback Layback Area of Harrison Bluffs, a stretch of rock that challenges even seasoned trad climbers with its unapologetic character. The route kicks off from a scruffy ledge cloaked in brush, immediately immersing you in the rugged texture of the wall. From there, you thread your way up and left toward a sharp, hanging flake crack that dares you to trust small finger-sized cams. This initial section demands precise footwork and calculated tension, as each move pushes your awareness.

As you top out of the crack, the route shifts into a tricky crux that pulls you up and right, negotiating a series of overlapping rock features that test body position and nerve. Here, the rock leans into you — a reminder that protection is sparse but vital; a discreet cam under one of these bulges becomes your lifeline. After surmounting this stern challenge, you finish the pitch on more exposed but manageable terrain, aiming for the belay tree that guards your hard-fought progress.

Though only 50 feet in length, Bloody Finger carries a serious punch. The bouldery nature of its moves compels climbers to stay mentally sharp while managing physical intensity. The protection calls for a trusty rack of finger-sized cams and nuts, as the gear placements require both attention and finesse. The setting itself is unpolished, perched within the Fraser Valley’s rock galleries, offering sweeping views and the ambient hum of wilderness edges meeting civilization.

For adventurers craving a textured climb that blends mental puzzle with physical grit, Bloody Finger delivers an experience rich with exposure and commitment. Given its short length, it’s a perfect route for climbers looking to sharpen finger crack technique amidst the sprawling natural amphitheater of British Columbia’s climbing relics. Timing your climb for mid-morning or later ensures the wall receives enough warmth without baking in the midday sun, helping to maintain friction underfoot.

The approach follows a shrub-lined trail that snakes through typical west coast forest, where the scent of cedar and damp earth lingers. A cautious pace down this path (or back after the climb) is advised, as the uneven terrain demands steady footing. The route's signature lies in the marriage of rough-hewn rock and the strategic dance of protection placements—offering an authentic trad experience that rewards meticulous preparation and respect for the line.

Be sure to pack durable shoes with sticky rubber, and bring extra hydration; despite the climb's brevity, the effort it extracts is thorough. Whether you're seeking to hone advanced finger crack skills or just feel the thrill of a climb that engages mind and muscle alike, Bloody Finger waits with a challenge that feels as raw as it looks.

Climber Safety

Protection opportunities are limited and require careful placement of finger-sized cams and nuts; the exposure over overlaps can increase potential fall consequences. The bushy ledge at the base can obscure footing, so approach with care to avoid slips. Also, damp conditions can make the rock deceptively slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start from the left end of the bushy ledge where the approach trail ends.

Place protection carefully under overlaps during the crux—gear is scarce but critical.

Wear shoes with excellent edging and sticky rubber for better grip on small holds.

Avoid climbing late in the afternoon to prevent slick rock from moisture and shade.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11a rating holds firm with a distinct crux that bumps the difficulty, demanding technical precision and strength on small finger jams and moves over roofed sections. Climbers familiar with nearby moderate crack climbs might find Bloody Finger noticeably stiffer, especially given the short, intense nature of the pitch.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on finger-sized cams and nuts, as placements are tight and precise. The crux rises over overlapping flakes with limited fixed protection, so reliable gear placements are essential for safety.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Bloody Finger and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

finger crack
bouldery
crux
single pitch
trad climbing
Harrison Bluffs