HomeClimbingBlood on the Tracks

Blood on the Tracks: A Bold Finger Crack Climb in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
finger crack
bulge
trad
single pitch
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
technical placements
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Blood on the Tracks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blood on the Tracks brings focused finger crack climbing to Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse Area. A single pitch with a left-angling crack and a bulging overhang, it demands precise gear placements and steady technique in a raw desert setting."

Blood on the Tracks: A Bold Finger Crack Climb in Joshua Tree

Blood on the Tracks offers a focused, rewarding climb within Joshua Tree National Park’s Lost Horse Area, a place where the desert’s raw granite challenges climbers with uncompromising features. Starting from the same approach as the popular Don’t Think Twice route, this single-pitch trad climb veers off to the left, immediately inviting you into a finger crack that angles subtly upward and left. The rock, sunbaked and textural, demands precise hand and finger placements, providing continuous tactile feedback as you ascend.

After settling into the initial crack, the route intensifies with a bulge that arches leftward, demanding body tension and confident footwork. Here, the line cuts through an overhanging bulge that tests your endurance and route reading. Each move along the crack feels decisive, as the slight lean of the rock encourages deliberate, committed movement.

Located in Joshua Tree, this climb sits in a vast desert environment where the heat can be oppressive during midday. Arrive early or late in the day to catch the gentle morning shade or the coolness that follows sunset. The desert whispers its presence through creosote bushes and scattered boulders, and in the quiet moments, you might catch the distant call of ravens. Despite its relatively modest height of 60 feet, Blood on the Tracks packs technical challenge into every move.

Protection is straightforward but critical here. The crack accommodates cams up to three inches, with two #3 camalots recommended for the bulge section. Bring a standard trad rack focused on small to medium-sized cams—smaller gear fits snugly while mid-sized cams protect the more demanding bulge. The quality of the rock is solid, typical of Joshua Tree’s coarse granite, but climbers should stay alert for any lichen or slight crumbly patches near the base.

The approach to Lost Horse Area involves a well-marked trail that crosses open desert landscapes scattered with iconic rock formations. The trail is mostly compact dirt with some loose scree near the parking area; it's a 20-25 minute walk from the parking lot with a gentle elevation gain. Water and sun protection are essentials here, especially during warmer months.

For those looking to add a memorable climb to their Joshua Tree logbook, Blood on the Tracks blends technical finger crack climbing with desert ambiance and straightforward gear needs. Its 5.10a rating is a reliable indicator of sustained, finger-crack-focused climbing that rewards precise technique and commitment without overwhelming complexity.

Plan your climb around cooler parts of the day, stay hydrated, and prepare for a direct, engaging route that feels both natural and challenging amid the park’s rugged textures and wide-open desert sky.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the base and in areas around the crack’s start. The coarse granite provides good friction, but desert rock can have fragile sections, so stay attentive during placements and footwork.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid desert heat and enjoy shade on the wall.

Bring plenty of water and sun protection; the trail has little natural cover.

Scout placements carefully through the bulge; small gear placements are vital here.

Check rock quality near the base for any loose patches before leading.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade feels appropriately challenging for sustained finger crack climbing with a technical bulge that pushes the rating. The crux bulge demands controlled body tension, making the grade feel solid but fair. Compared to other Lost Horse climbs, it’s a focused, technical test rather than an endurance route.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack up to 3 inches, with an emphasis on finger-sized cams. Two #3 camalots are crucial for protecting the key bulge section where placements can be sparse but secure.

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Tags

finger crack
bulge
trad
single pitch
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
technical placements