HomeClimbingBlood and Pepper

Blood and Pepper: Squamish’s Sharp Sport Arete

Squamish, Canada
arete
technical
sport climbing
short climb
high crux
granite
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Blood and Pepper
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blood and Pepper presents a focused, technical sport climb on a sharp granite arete in Squamish’s Fern Hill. With a high crux bolt and delicate moves, it offers precision climbing for those ready to engage both mind and muscle."

Blood and Pepper: Squamish’s Sharp Sport Arete

At the edge where forested slopes channel into granite cliffs, Blood and Pepper stands out as a precise test of sport climbing finesse. Located in the Fern Hill area of Squamish, this 90-foot route offers a concise but challenging experience for climbers who appreciate technical movement framed by a rugged wilderness backdrop. The climb begins with deceptively straightforward moves that gradually tease your focus as you ascend toward a pronounced arete. This is where the real challenge unfolds—a high, committing crux near the first bolt that demands controlled precision and a confident grip.

The route’s approach is a straightforward trek along the Mamquam Forest Service Road, a well-maintained path that winds through dense Douglas fir and cedar groves, filling the air with the fresh scent of pine and the occasional call of distant ravens. Expect a 10 to 15-minute walk from the parking area, with soft earth and some loose stones underfoot. The climb faces east, granting morning sunlight that warms the granite and highlights its textured features, making holds and edges clearer for an early start.

Once on the rock, the initial sequence is forgiving but requires balance and careful foot placement to avoid the slip that can sap your momentum. As you near the first bolt, the rock tightens, and the moves shift toward sharper pinches and delicate edges. The crux sits high, testing your ability to lock in on small crimps and make a dynamic move around a sloping flake. Falling left here means skirting the crux and dropping a grade, but staying committed to the arete rewards with the pure flow of tradelike movement on sport protection.

Protection consists solely of bolts, polished but well-spaced, making clip efficiency and pump management critical. The length is short enough that endurance won’t dominate, but the concentration required throughout calls for a calm, steady breath and solid footwork. After topping out, the sense of accomplishment is immediate—exposure and the surrounding coastal forest landscape stretch out in a panorama that anchors the climb’s intensity with a deep connection to Squamish’s wild spirit.

For gear, minimal draws suffice, but a few runners can ease clip tension on the arete’s protruding anchor bolts. Shoes with sticky rubber and a sensitive edge will enhance your ability to find purchase on the less obvious footholds. Hydrate before the climb and plan to start early to take advantage of cooler temperatures and to avoid the rock baking under midday sun.

Blood and Pepper is a perfect pick for climbers seeking to sharpen their technique on a sharp, single-pitch sport route that rewards both mental focus and physical precision. It’s a route that challenges without overwhelming — a clear, direct climb that invites repeated attempts as confidence and control improve.

Climber Safety

The high crux is positioned near the first bolt, making a fall here particularly committing. Climbers should be prepared for a dynamic move and use careful foot placements to stay controlled. Watch for polished holds after busy days and remain vigilant on the approach trail for loose stones.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in cool morning light and avoid the sun warming the rock.

Use sensitive edging shoes to maximize foothold grip on the technical arete.

Bring extra runners to minimize rope drag on the route's distinctive protruding bolts.

Stay committed on the high crux near the first bolt to avoid downgrading the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.12a, Blood and Pepper demands precise technique more than raw power. The grading feels true to its difficulty, with a hard crux positioned high that tests climbers’ composure and footwork. While the approach is road-adjacent and approachable, the climb itself challenges even those comfortable with 5.11+/12- terrain. Compared to other Squamish sport climbs, it stands out with its emphasis on technical balance rather than overhanging strength.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected exclusively by bolts spaced to require confident clip management. Sticky-soled climbing shoes and a handful of quickdraws with runners for reducing drag are recommended for smooth ascent.

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Tags

arete
technical
sport climbing
short climb
high crux
granite