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Blockbuster at The Hangover: Sport Climbing on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula

Conception Bay South, Canada
bulge crux
short route
sport climbing
slab finish
coastal views
preclip advised
reliable bolts
Length: 25 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Blockbuster
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blockbuster is a commanding single-pitch sport climb on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula that challenges climbers with a powerful bulge crux and a final slab finish. Perfect for those seeking a concise, technical ascent with reliable protection and breathtaking views."

Blockbuster at The Hangover: Sport Climbing on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula

Blockbuster presents a sharp challenge on the rugged face of The Hangover, just outside Conception Bay South on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula. This short but demanding climb packs a concentrated burst of technical moves into its 25-foot length, making it a prime destination for climbers eager to test precise finger strength and body positioning on compact terrain. The route begins just right of prominent ledges, immediately demanding focus as you launch into a sequence that pushes tight against the bulging section of the wall. This bulge isn’t just a visual obstacle—it dares you to find your rhythm and commitment early, with powerful moves that reward careful pre-clipping before engagement.

Once you’ve powered through this physical crux near the lower third, the wall eases into a slab that curves subtly away from the bulge, offering respite through more delicate smears and placements, finishing where the rock falls away gently. The slab’s texture invites thoughtful footwork, providing a balance to the earlier intensity and a satisfying finish that tests both agility and composure. This route’s natural rhythm pulls you into a tactile dialogue with the stone—each hold and edge feels alive, pushing you to balance strength with finesse.

Located on a scenic, moderately exposed wall within a cluster known locally as The Hangover, Blockbuster benefits from an easily accessible approach and solid bolted protection. The single pitch is sport equipped, with well-spaced bolts enabling confident headway, though the crux’s proximity to the ground means attention to preclipping can be a crucial safety measure. Anchors sit securely at the top, bolted for clean rappels or straightforward lowering.

Beyond the climb itself, the surrounding landscape rewards visitors with sweeping views of Conception Bay’s deep blues and the ridges of the Avalon Peninsula. Crisp sea breezes filter through the crags, carrying hints of salt and pine. The approach trail is short and direct, threading through mixed forest before arriving at the base, offering a simple, practical gateway for climbers of varying experience eager to tap into Newfoundland’s growing sport climbing scene.

Timing your ascent for late spring through early fall ensures dry rock and moderate temperatures, ideal for maintaining friction and comfort during the move-intensive crux. Footwear selection should emphasize precision edging combined with enough sensitivity for slab balance. Hydration is essential, especially on warmer days when exposure and physical effort combine to increase fatigue.

Whether you’re dialing in your sport climbing technique or looking for a concise yet bold test piece on Newfoundland’s eastern coast, Blockbuster delivers honest climbing that rewards preparation and commitment. It’s a route that invites you into a direct conversation with the rock, challenging your body and focus while embracing the untamed coastal backdrop.

Climber Safety

Due to the crux being close to the ground, grounding falls are a risk without proper preclipping. Ensure you’re clipped into the first bolt before committing to powerful moves, and always double-check anchor integrity before topping out or rappelling.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Preclip the first bolt before entering the crux to reduce fall risks.

Wear precision climbing shoes for the slab finish to maintain solid footing.

Approach via the marked trail through mixed forest—it's less than 10 minutes from the parking area.

Plan climbs in late spring through early fall for best rock conditions and moderate temperatures.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11a rating fits well with the physical demands of the bulge crux early on. While the overall length is brief, the intense sequence pushes strength and technique upfront, making the rating feel accurate rather than soft. Climbers familiar with classic 5.11 sport routes on polished holds will find the moves tough but straightforward, with no unexpected mechanical difficult sections beyond the main bulge.

Gear Requirements

The route is fully bolted with fixed anchors, making it ideal for sport climbers who prefer secure protection. Given the crux's location near the bottom, preclipping the first bolt is recommended to mitigate risk from potential ground falls.

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Tags

bulge crux
short route
sport climbing
slab finish
coastal views
preclip advised
reliable bolts