"Bleue Directe stands as a compelling single-pitch trad challenge in Val-David’s Laurentian range. Featuring a now tougher slab start and a choice between an airy left finish or a steeper bolted variation, this 5.9 climb rewards steady footwork and smart gear placements amidst a quiet forest setting."
Bleue Directe climbs an exposed right wall in the quiet Val-David area of Quebec’s Laurentians, offering a single-pitch trad experience that balances technical challenge with straightforward commitment. At 100 feet, this route presents a slab start that’s grown tougher over time as the base has subtly worn away, nudging climbers to focus and trust their footwork early on. The climb begins beneath a corner chimney, threading through two well-positioned bolts that call for precise stick clipping. You move steadily upward, following the crack’s natural groove while feeling the rock’s gradual shift beneath your hands and feet.
As you gain height, the corner widens and opens, revealing a choice near three-quarters of the way up: continue along the chimney to an elegant finish on the left-hand side where the last corner provides a striking aerial challenge, or opt for the more demanding 5.10 bolted variation on the right. The feeling here is one of measured intensity—the climb demands respect and attention to gear placements while inviting you to read the rock with care.
Protection is straightforward but essential: a standard rack with doubles up to a #2 cam is advised, alongside confidence in stick clipping the first bolt. It’s not a route to rush; the belay stations are bolted for secure relays and rap descent, easing retreat if conditions shift. The approach to Bleue Directe is manageable but gains a rustic character typical of the Laurentians—undeveloped trails through mixed forest, with crisp air and fine granite edging your way. The climb’s right wall faces east, catching morning light that warms the rock quickly but leaving shade during afternoon climbs, making spring through early autumn the best window for ascent.
Though it registers a 5.9 rating, the route’s slightly eroded slab start and positioning raise the technical challenge just enough to activate those tactical muscles, rewarding climbers who come prepared and patient. From the forest floor’s muffled rustle to the crisp sound of cams setting, to the subtle scent of pine and stone, Bleue Directe invites climbers into an authentic Laurentian adventure grounded in precision and focus.
The base erosion creates a trickier slab start that may catch climbers off guard; ensure solid foot placements before committing. Stick clip the first bolt to reduce the risk of dangerous falls early on. Weather can quickly shift in the Laurentians, so check conditions and be mindful of wet rock making the slab slippery.
Stick clip the first bolt to avoid awkward falls on the slab start.
Approach through mixed forest trails that can be slippery when wet; wear sturdy footwear.
Start climbs early to take advantage of morning sun warming the east-facing wall.
Be prepared for two options near the top: the classic areal finish on the left or the steeper bolted 5.10 variation on the right.
Bring a standard trad rack with doubles up to #2 cams. The route includes two fixed bolts, so prepare to stick clip the first bolt to avoid rope drag and improve safety. Belay anchors are bolted for secure rappels.
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