"Blasted on Smelter Mountain offers a tightly packed trad climb that blends secure jams with delicate, technical moves. Ideal for climbers seeking a quick yet rewarding test of balance and gear placement skills."
Blasted offers a focused and adventurous trad climb on Smelter Mountain just outside Durango, Colorado. This concise 40-foot route packs a thoughtful mix of climbing styles that reward both careful footwork and bold movement. Starting in a corner filled with flakes and ledges, the climb invites you to lock into precise jams and body positioning before moving left to confront a pronounced bulge. The rock here demands attention; every hold feels deliberate as you engage in a high step right that challenges balance and flexibility. As you approach the top, a sequence of edges, pinches, and slopers presents a technical finish requiring steady hands and deliberate control to mantle out.
Protection is a blend of bolts and traditional gear placements, generally up to 2 inches. The rock quality influences bolt placement, creating some tension with a slightly run-out feel. This adds an edge to the route—longer slings alleviate rope drag and give more comfort to the lead climber navigating the space between protection points. For those preparing to climb Blasted, sturdy shoes with good edging ability, a light rack suited for small to medium cams, and some patience with route-finding are key.
Access to Smelter Mountain is straightforward from Durango, making it an approachable option for climbers wanting a short but engaging test of their trad skills. The south-facing wall bakes in sun through most of the day, so morning ascents offer cooler conditions and better grip on the rock’s textured surface. Despite its modest length, Blasted demands focus and delivers exposure close to the forested base of the mountain, where the ever-present scent of pine and occasional calls of birds set an intimate outdoor atmosphere.
Whether you’re warming up for a longer day or seeking a quick pulse-raiser, this route balances playful movement with a solid dose of mental game. Keep in mind the bolt spacing and run-out nature when scouting gear placements, and take advantage of the nearby trails to enjoy supple warm-ups and scenic views around Durango’s rocky edges.
Run-out sections mean gear placements are spaced out—longer slings reduce drag and help prevent gear from being pulled out. The rock quality affects bolt security, so test placements carefully. Avoid climbing after heavy rain as the rock can become slick, particularly around the bulge.
Start early to avoid the full sun beating on the face in the afternoon.
Bring longer slings to reduce rope drag on the run-out sections.
A rack focused on small to medium cams will cover the protection needs.
Approach via the well-trodden Smelter Gulch trail; allow 15 minutes from the parking area.
A combination of bolts and traditional gear placements is key. Bring cams up to 2 inches and longer slings to manage rope drag due to bolt spacing and run-out sections.
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