"A sharp, intense sport climb on Avalon Peninsula’s Main Face, Blackout delivers technical movement on a compact 30-foot arete. Add the Five Fingers crack for a trad extension that pushes skills into new terrain."
Blackout carves a brief but intense line on the rugged cliffs of the Avalon Peninsula in Newfoundland, offering climbers a concentrated burst of technical sport climbing amid the wild Atlantic backdrop. Though only about 30 feet in length, this route demands focused movement and deliberate protection, especially as it threads a sharp arete that stands as the centerpiece of the climb. The approach to the bolt line invites climbers to carefully stick clip the first bolt, a practical precaution that sets the tone for the steady resistance awaiting above. From there, you forge upward along two more bolts, balancing precision and strength on slender holds that test both technique and resolve.
At the ledge midway, Blackout offers a moment to rest and evaluate next steps. Here, the double-bolt rappel anchor ensures a safe and straightforward descent for those limiting their ascent to the sport route. But for those drawn to extend the adventure, the climb continues via a 5.6 hand crack known as Five Fingers, a finger-sized gear crack demanding solid crack climbing skills and a rack of smaller cams. This extension shifts the experience, blending sport climbing's clipped bolts with traditional protection challenges that reward careful placements and confident jamming.
Set on the Main Face within Flatrock, the environment surrounding Blackout is characteristically Atlantic—winds that push salt air inland, granite faces carved sharply by time, and sweeping views that quietly insist you respect the elements at play. The cliff’s orientation means that early mornings and late afternoons deliver the best light and temperature balance, minimizing slickness on the rock and maximizing climbing comfort. Given the short approach and impressive exposures, this spot is ideal for climbers seeking a no-nonsense, focused challenge that fits into a half-day outing.
Gear-wise, bring a stick clip to safely engage the first bolt, a standard sport rack for the bolts, plus a small selection of hand-sized cams if you plan to top out via Five Fingers. Footwear needs to be sensitive enough for the technical arete but supportive to handle the crack section. Hydration remains essential regardless of route length—as unpredictable coastal weather can sap energy quickly—and a solid plan for descent ensures you walk away with confidence and clarity. Whether you’re ticking off a local sport route or mixing trad moves into an extended send, Blackout delivers an experience that sharpens skills and leaves you connected to Newfoundland’s climbing edge.
Stick clipping the first bolt is crucial to avoid a ground fall. The rock can be sharp on the arete, so careful hand and foot placements reduce injury risk. Near the ledge, confirm the rappel anchors before descending, and be mindful of gusts that can affect balance during exposed sections.
Always stick clip the first bolt to avoid risky falls at the start.
Bring a small set of hand-sized cams if you plan to top out on Five Fingers.
Early mornings or late afternoons provide the best temperature and light on the face.
Watch for ocean-driven winds that can chill, so dress in layers.
Stick clip the first bolt before climbing three bolts to the ledge. Use a bolt anchor to rappel or continue up a 5.6 hand crack with hand-sized cams to the top anchor.
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