"Blackheads delivers a compact, technical trad climb on solid desert sandstone. Featuring stair-step moves, patina holds, and a layback crack, this 5.9 PG13 route challenges intermediate climbers with friction and gear puzzles amid the iconic Joshua Tree scenery."
Located within the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park, Blackheads offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging trad route that captures the raw character of the desert landscape. This route ascends a series of stair-like blocks that challenge your footwork while rewarding with clean movements across textured patina. The climb demands a careful eye for subtle features, guiding you rightward toward a well-placed bolt that signals the climb’s first real test. From there, a few grainy step-ups press you higher, punctuated by bolts that mark confident protection points. The line veers left and climbs into a layback crack, where opportunities for pro placements open up in both horizontals and the crack itself—a satisfying puzzle of gear and body positioning. For those seeking a smoother finish, the cleaner crack topping out just to the right, known as Blackheart, offers an elegant alternative. Protection is limited but reliable: two bolts lead to a shared two-bolt anchor with Blackheart, creating a secure and straightforward descent point. The climb’s 45 feet are packed with a blend of gritty friction, precise body movements, and the wide-open exposure familiar to Joshua Tree. As the sun climbs overhead, the rock’s warm patina invites firm holds and steady foot placement, making the route accessible to intermediate climbers ready to push their comfort on 5.9 PG13 terrain. Approaching Ken Black Memorial Dome involves a short hike from Lost Horse Road, walking over desert sandstone strewn with cactus and brittle scrub that crunch beneath boots. The climb’s compact length means it pairs well with neighboring routes for a full day of desert adventure, balanced by Joshua Tree’s distinct sunburnt silence and the steady desert breeze that cools the effort. The route highlights the park’s characteristic combination of friction climbing and fragile cracks, requiring both boldness and grace to ascend cleanly. Blackheads is a vivid example of Joshua Tree’s offering—accessible, technical, and set within an iconic southwestern landscape that shapes climbers as much as the rock itself.
Be vigilant of runouts between bolts; the grainy slabs require confident footwork. The shared anchor with Blackheart helps with descent, but fixed gear is minimal—always double-check placements and consider bringing a full trad rack with finger to small cam sizes.
Approach via Lost Horse Road; trailhead parking available about a 15-minute walk to the dome base.
Desert temperatures can spike; bring plenty of water and time your climb for cooler morning hours.
Wear sticky rubber shoes with good edging capability to handle the patina slabs and grainy step-ups.
Inspect gear placements carefully in the layback crack—protection spots can feel sparse but adequate.
Two bolts protect the initial moves and lead to a shared two-bolt anchor with the adjacent Blackheart route. Expect to place trad gear in horizontal breaks and the layback crack—size range from small cams to fingers is recommended.
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