"Black Water commands attention on the darker faces of Petrifying Wall, testing climbers with sustained crimps and delicate moves. Best tackled in the drier months, this single-pitch sport route is a technical fingerprint of Squamish’s granite grit."
Black Water climbs the dark, water-streaked face of Petrifying Wall, positioned just right of the Pleasant Pheasant sector within Murrin Park near Squamish, British Columbia. This route demands attention from the first move as it scales a steep ramp before locking into a sustained crimp-fest that challenges your finger strength and endurance. With around 120 feet of vertical terrain, Black Water is a single-pitch sport climb notorious for its thin holds and delicate sequences. The presence of moisture on the rock up until July adds an unpredictable element, making it advisable to plan ascents later in the season when the stone dries and friction improves.
The route features three distinct crux sections that test technical skill rather than brute force, rewarding climbers who maintain precise body positioning and careful footwork. Fixed anchors secure the top, providing a safe and reliable belay point, while the ten pre-placed quickdraws ensure smooth clipping throughout the climb. Although Black Water carries a rating of 5.12a, many climbers find the difficulty to be sustained with few opportunities for rest, encapsulating the style and character that Squamish’s sport climbs are known for.
Murrin Park itself is a compelling spot for climbers venturing from the nearby town of Squamish—a hub of outdoor adventure in British Columbia. The surrounding forest frames the impressive granite walls, and the air often carries the fresh scent of damp cedar and pine. Access to Petrifying Wall is straightforward: a short hike from the main parking area leads you to the base, winding through shaded woodland that gradually opens to views of the wall’s dark, glistening surface.
When approaching Black Water, climbers should arrive with solid crimp strength, resilient mental focus, and gear lined up for a sport climb focused on discipline and fluid movement. The climb feels direct and purposeful; it does not offer much slack for hesitation or error. For those seeking a technical test without overly committing multi-pitch complexity, Black Water presents a rewarding challenge amid one of Canada’s premier climbing playgrounds.
Preparation-wise, ensure hands are dry and warm due to the delicate holds—chalk and finger care are essential. Wear shoes with great edging capability, and plan your climb for mid to late summer to avoid wet conditions. Adding layers before and after your climb is wise as temperatures shift quickly in the coastal mountains. Completing Black Water not only ticks a benchmark 5.12a line in Squamish but also immerses you in the gritty experience of granite climbing that makes this region a magnet for climbers around the world.
Be cautious of early season moisture that leaves the rock slick and risky; check conditions before heading out and avoid climbing Black Water until the stone has fully dried, usually after July. The sheer black streaks can be deceptive in wet weather, increasing slip potential.
Plan your climb for July or later to avoid wet, slippery holds early in the season.
Wear climbing shoes with precise edging to handle small crimps effectively.
Chalk up generously, as the sustained crimpy style demands dry hands and finger care.
Approach via the marked trail from Murrin Park parking; it’s a 10-minute walk through shaded forest.
Bring 10 quickdraws for the route’s fixed bolts, and be prepared to clip smoothly on thin, technical moves. Fixed anchors at the top allow for a secure belay and descent.
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