"Black Velvet climbs a clean, right-facing dihedral with reliable protection and a crux positioned three-quarters up. Ideal for trad climbers seeking a concise line with secure anchors in the iconic Radio Head area."
Black Velvet offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging single-pitch trad experience on a prominent right-facing dihedral in the Radio Head area of Devil's Head, South Platte, Colorado. From the ground, the climb presents a clean line shadowed slightly at its base by some patchy lichen, which can be carefully navigated with deliberate footwork. The dihedral itself invites steady movement, with solid holds and ample opportunities for protection as you ascend the 65-foot wall.
The route’s key challenge appears roughly three-quarters of the way up—a subtle crux where the moves tighten and require precise body positioning to maintain momentum. Despite the increased difficulty here, thoughtful gear placement makes this section manageable. Notably, experienced climbers sometimes choose to extend their protection by clipping the final bolt on the adjacent sport climb Tilt, adding an extra layer of security when needed.
Approaching Black Velvet, you’ll pass through rugged pine and scrub typical of the South Platte region, with the crisp mountain air sharpening your focus before the climb. The climb itself demands mental and physical engagement—the rock’s texture is firm but offers no room for hesitation. Protection calls for a standard rack, including a large piece like a #4 Camalot to secure the base where the crack widens. The presence of two fixed descent bolts at the top eases the return, allowing for a safe and straightforward rappel.
Climbers appreciate Black Velvet for its balance of technical challenge and accessible length, making it an ideal objective for those refining crack technique or warming up on the cliff. Keep a keen eye out for loose lichen near the base, and plan your gear wisely to maximize safety. Whether you’re a local honing your trad skills or visiting from afar, this classic line delivers clear, practical climbing in a quiet and scenic mountain setting.
Be cautious of lichen at the bottom, which can become slippery if damp. Make careful gear placements early on where the crack widens, and always verify your rappel setup on the two fixed bolts for a safe descent.
Watch for lichen near the start; avoid slippery patches by careful foot placements.
Consider clipping the last bolt on Tilt for extra security if your rack is light.
Use a large cam early to protect the beginning of the dihedral’s widening crack.
Plan your descent beforehand—fixed bolts make rappelling straightforward but double-check your gear.
Bring a full standard trad rack, including to 3" protection. A larger piece such as a #4 Camalot is recommended for the wide section at the base. Two bolts fixed at the top facilitate secure rappels.
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