"Black Slabbeth provides a secure introduction to 5.9 sport climbing with a gently angled 60-foot slab punctuated by nine bolts. Located at Cactus Cliff, this climb blends straightforward moves with desert ambiance, making it ideal for those stepping into moderate sport challenges."
The Black Slabbeth route on Cactus Cliff offers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to the 5.9 sport climbing realm in one of Colorado’s well-loved trad and sport climbing hubs. Positioned at the far end of a moderate alcove accessed via Shelf Road near Canon City, this 60-foot slab rises steadily with nine well-spaced bolts running up its center. Its rugged character is shaped by the black rock’s smooth, commanding presence, flanked on each side by parallel cracks that frame a subtly challenging path. Approaching the base requires navigating past scattered cacti and some loose, weathered rock, a reminder that the desert landscape still guards its secrets and demands respect.
Though the rating suggests a firm 5.9, many climbers find the moves approachable, hovering closer to 5.8-5.9 difficulty depending on the chosen line. The right crack, often favored for its more direct handholds and footholds, eases the effort, while trying to avoid both cracks to climb the center of the slab can feel unnecessarily forced, pressing the climber into unnatural moves for the grading. This makes Black Slabbeth an excellent route for climbers eager to refine their sport lead skills and gain confidence before pushing into the tougher 5.10 levels.
The rock itself, typical of the Shelf Road area, is solid with a consistent friction that lets your feet stick well without requiring flashy, gym-style power. The nine bolts provide peace of mind on lead, lowering the risk of runs out or questionable protection points. This safety factor encourages relaxed climbing and better focus on technique and movement. From the top, the expansive views across the semi-arid landscape and the surrounding ridges invite a moment of satisfaction—proof that a first or second 5.9 can offer both growth and gratification.
For those planning a trip, timing your climb for spring or fall maximizes comfort, as summer heats can intensify the sun-baked rock and surrounding desert. Early morning climbs shield you from the strongest sun, turning the slab into a pleasantly warm playground instead of a scorched challenge. Footwear with sticky rubber is a must here, as slab climbing depends heavily on precise footwork. A light rack beyond the nine bolts is unnecessary, shifting the focus entirely onto movement and balance rather than gear placement.
Accessing Black Slabbeth involves a short trail through sparse vegetation, about five to ten minutes from the main parking area along Shelf Road. While the trail is straightforward, some care is needed to avoid the prickly cacti lining the approach. The climb’s exposure is minimal, but brushing shoulders with the rugged, sunlit rock and desert flora offers sensory reminders of this route’s rugged setting. Overall, Black Slabbeth is a no-nonsense, approachable sport climb that balances safety with a satisfying challenge, marking a clear step forward for climbers ready to push into moderate 5.9 terrain on Colorado’s iconic sandstone.
Whether you’re carving out your step into sustained sport climbing or seeking a reliable climb to polish your slab technique, Black Slabbeth welcomes you with open arms and solid bolts.
Watch your approach carefully—loose rocks and cactus patches can make footing tricky before reaching the bolted slab. On the route itself, the abundant bolts make lead falls safe, but avoid straying into the side cracks, which can be more difficult and less protected.
Plan your ascent in early morning or late afternoon to avoid intense midday sun.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes engineered for slab technique.
Mind the cacti and loose rocks on the approach; sturdy shoes help protect your feet.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection to handle the desert environment.
Nine bolts along the route ensure solid protection for your lead. No additional gear is required, making it perfect for climbers focused on movement and technique rather than gear placements.
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