"Black Napkins stands as a reliable 5.9 sport climb on Middle Wall’s left edge in Truckee River Canyon. Featuring five bolts and a moderate mantle move atop a midway ledge, it offers both technical interest and accessible protection framed by a striking alpine backdrop."
Black Napkins offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging 90-foot sport pitch on the left edge of Middle Wall, located within Shirley Canyon Cliffs, near the Truckee River Canyon in California. This route stands out for its clean, direct lines and moderate challenge, making it an ideal outing for those stepping into 5.9 terrain or looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills in a scenic mountain setting.
From the moment you approach, the environment tells a story of rugged alpine character mingled with the steady pulse of the nearby Truckee River. The wall’s angle provides a steady vertical climb, anchored securely by five bolts, ensuring a reliable safety net on this predominantly face-and-corner route. Climbers start by working a low corner that demands mindful foot placement and balance before transitioning onto a ledge roughly halfway up. Here, it’s wise to deploy an optional .5 camalot for added protection, especially to ease the effort of the mantle move that follows.
Moving past the midway ledge, the line threads the left bolt sequence with steady holds and consistent features that reward focus and technique. The rock texture invites confident hand and foot placements, while the canyon’s natural contours frame the climb with views of forested slopes and distant ridgelines. The approachable grade combined with solid protection makes Black Napkins attractive both for dedicated sport climbers and adventurous visitors eager to explore Truckee’s climbing corridors without venturing into excessively committing terrain.
The approach to Middle Wall is practical and straightforward: a short hike through well-kept trails leading from trailhead parking to Shirley Canyon’s base, with an estimated 15-minute walk over moderate terrain. The route faces east, capturing morning sun and cooling into shaded comfort by mid-afternoon, so early starts are recommended for peak climbing conditions during warmer months. Proper footwear with sticky rubber will enhance grip on the smooth rock faces, while bringing enough water to stay hydrated amid intermittent sun exposure is essential.
Local climbers appreciate the route’s clear bolts and manageable protection, yet caution is advised around the ledge’s mantle move where loose rock fragments may lurk. Seasonal awareness is also critical; snow-laden approaches in early spring or late fall can add complexity and slow progress, so timing your visit between late spring and early autumn offers the best window for safe, enjoyable climbing.
Black Napkins is more than a quick pitch; it represents a day’s well-spent connection with Truckee’s climbing landscape, blending accessible technical movement with the serene wilderness setting that defines the region. Whether you’re polishing your 5.9 lead skills or seeking a solid route in a beautiful setting, Black Napkins delivers a dependable climb with enough character to leave a lasting impression.
Loose rock around the mantle stage requires vigilance, so test holds carefully and consider wearing a helmet. Additionally, the approach trail can be slick when wet or snowy, so choose your timing wisely to avoid hazards on slippery terrain.
Start early to take advantage of morning sun exposure on the climb.
Wear shoes with excellent rubber to handle the smooth rock face effectively.
Carry sufficient water as trail and climb can be intermittently exposed to sun.
Be cautious on the mantle move at the midway ledge where loose rock may appear.
This route is bolted with five fixed anchors, providing secure sport protection. An optional .5 camalot is suggested to shield the lower corner and mantle at the midway ledge for increased safety and comfort.
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