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Black Knight: A Bold Trad Challenge at Joe's Garage

Welsford, Canada
thin face
bolted face
horizontal crack
zig-zag crack
Astroboy Crack
technical
single pitch
trad rack
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Knight
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Knight offers a demanding trad climb at Joe's Garage, blending thin face climbing with a dynamic crack system. This route tests technique and endurance across a compact, technical 100-foot pitch."

Black Knight: A Bold Trad Challenge at Joe's Garage

Black Knight stands as an uncompromising test of technique and grit at Joe's Garage, tucked within the raw cliffs of Cochrane Lane near Welsford, New Brunswick. This single-pitch, 100-foot route demands precision as climbers initiate their ascent on a thin, bolted face marked by a distinct black streak. The challenge is immediate: confident footwork and a strong sense of balance carry you through this demanding vertical slab.

Approaching the halfway point, the line opens into a horizontal crack that signals a shift in climbing style. Here, a step left transitions you into a zig-zagging crack system, where fingers and hands must find purchase along varied edges that force careful sequence choices. This crack leads directly upward into the imposing vertical crack of Astroboy/Astroboy Direct, sending climbers through a final, strenuous section that tests endurance and crack technique.

For those eyeing alternatives, after the last bolt and horizontal break, an option exists to face climb up and right, ending at the Bullwhip Days anchors. However, this detour is less direct and lacks the coherent flow of finishing through the Astroboy crack, which delivers a more satisfying and continuous movement.

Protection on Black Knight is straightforward but crucial. Bolts support the technical face section, providing reliable placements for clipping, while a standard rack efficiently covers the crack climbs that follow. This balance of fixed and traditional gear reflects the hybrid nature of the route, where bold face moves merge into secure crack climbing.

The setting itself offers a quiet wilderness experience, with a landscape stretching over the Cochrane Lane Cliffs and panoramic views that reward every confident move. Climbers should prepare for variable weather common to New Brunswick’s coastal climate, bringing gear suited for sudden shifts and slick surfaces.

Planning to tackle Black Knight means packing carefully: stiffer climbing shoes aid edging on the face, while finger tape can protect against abrasive cracks. Timing your ascent for early morning or late afternoon helps avoid the harsh midday sun on east-facing walls, ensuring better grip and comfort. Approach trails are manageable but can be muddy in wet seasons, so sturdy boots and a quick GPS check at 45.4396 latitude and -66.3072 longitude will streamline your entry.

Black Knight promises an engaging trad adventure where technical demands merge with raw natural beauty. It’s a must for climbers seeking a focused, quality route that sharpens skills in crack technique without sacrificing the thrill of challenging face climbing. Pack wisely, move decisively, and embrace the calculated risks of this hidden gem on New Brunswick’s rugged climbing map.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant after rain as the face can become slippery; protection is solid but the approach to placements is technical and requires careful footwork. The horizontal crack and following crack system demand clean gear placement and secure hand jams—avoid loose rock and double-check all placements.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid sun exposure on the east-facing wall during midday.

Use stiff shoes for secure edging on the bolted face section.

Check weather forecasts carefully; surface slickness can increase after rain.

Tape fingers to protect against abrasion in the zig-zagging crack.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a grade holds true to the route’s demanding technical face climbing and sustained crack sequences. While the bolts ease protection concerns early on, the crux lies in maintaining composure on the thin face and executing solid crack moves. Some climbers find the grade fair but pushing, especially if they’re less comfortable with delicate face work transitioning into crack jams. For those familiar with similar East Coast trad routes, Black Knight rewards precision and gives a consistent challenge without hidden soft spots.

Gear Requirements

Bolts protect the technical face section, while a standard trad rack covers the crack climbing that follows. Bring a rack with cams and nuts sized for thin to moderate cracks.

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Tags

thin face
bolted face
horizontal crack
zig-zag crack
Astroboy Crack
technical
single pitch
trad rack