"Black is Brown delivers a straightforward, hands-on trad climb on Yosemite’s less-traveled north face of Church Bowl. Its mix of laybacks and crack jams challenges climbers to master precise placements and steady footwork along a solid 145-foot pitch."
Black is Brown presents a gritty and straightforward shot at Yosemite's classic granite on the quieter north side of Church Bowl. This 145-foot single pitch lies just beyond the usual trampling grounds, offering climbers an engaging blend of powerful laybacking and hands-on crack moves that demand both patience and precision. The climb opens with a 5.7 lieback, where strong fingers and steady feet push against the stone’s rough texture as you inch upward with the vertical crack daring you to find your rhythm. From there, the route shifts into a hands jam section rated at 5.8, but seasoned climbers often find the overall 5.9 rating more fitting, thanks to a particularly challenging step to the right that feels subtly intimidating until mastered.
The granite here wears its age gracefully—solid but demanding exact protection skill. Although the climb is relatively short, it packs a concentrated dose of Yosemite trad ethic: be prepared to read the rock and trust your placements up to 2 inches. Protection choices are straightforward but require confident placements in somewhat irregular cracks. A clear ledge near the top offers a welcome rest and a small vantage point to catch your breath and savor the expansive views across Yosemite's valley walls, where the air hums with the muted rush of distant waterfalls and the whisper of wind through the pines.
Access to Black is Brown is practical and low-fuss, making it ideal for a quick session or part of a broader day of climbing in the valley’s lesser crowded spots. The approach is a short hike from the established trail system, with minimal elevation gain and well-defined footing, ensuring an accessible start even on a busy day. Climbers benefit from gearing up with reliable finger-sized cams and nuts to cover the climb's protection needs fully, adding both safety and confidence to the experience. Early morning or late afternoon ascents are favored to avoid the harsh midday sun, as the north-facing wall holds shade longer into the day, keeping rock temps cooler and grips more consistent.
This route isn’t about flash or fame—it’s a solid, hands-on challenge that rewards focused effort and spatial awareness. The climb is suited to those honing their crack skills or looking for a clear, short trad pitch away from the busiest sections of Yosemite. Whether you’re ticking off your first 5.9 or refining technique on a steadfast granite face, Black is Brown offers a slice of Yosemite climbing that’s quietly essential. When planning your trip, remember to pack water, stay alert to changing weather in the valley, and give extra attention to your pro placements where the crack narrows or steps out awkwardly. The descent is simple, with walk-off options that avoid tricky downclimbs or rappels, making it an efficient climb for skill development and pure granite enjoyment.
Rock quality is mostly sound, but pay close attention when placing gear in the step right section, where cracks narrow and protection can be trickier. Watch footing on the ledge near the top, as loose gravel occasionally accumulates. Seasonal weather changes can bring damp rock early in spring, so plan accordingly.
Start early to take advantage of the north-facing shade for cooler rock conditions.
Bring a full set of cams up to 2 inches—small gear is vital for secure placements.
The approach trail is short but watch for loose rock near the base on the final steps.
Stay hydrated and pack minimal gear to maintain efficiency on this single-pitch climb.
Standard trad rack with cams up to 2 inches is necessary. Key placements appear in the initial layback and the tricky step right section. No fixed gear reported; pro approach is essential.
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