"Black Dog stands as a 500-foot, three-pitch trad climb on Greyrock’s Southeast Face near Fort Collins. It combines crack-focused climbing with a challenging friction crux on pitch one, offering a balanced test for climbers seeking both exposure and technical sequence."
At the edge of Poudre Canyon near Fort Collins, Black Dog offers climbers a gritty, hands-on trad experience on Greyrock’s Southeast Face. This route stretches 500 feet across three pitches, delivering an engaging blend of crack climbing and exposed face moves that encourage focus and finesse. The climb opens with a flake system that presents options: an easier left-hand side or a more aesthetic right-hand crack rated around 5.7. Early on, the line funnels into a roofed crack system requiring delicate maneuvering past fixed pins. The rock here demands steadiness — protection thins out as you push past the roofs and into a slick, friction-dependent finish to pitch one. This section carries a runout element that channels climbers’ resolve, requiring careful body positioning and steady nerve as you search for crimps and footholds.
Pitch two eases off the intensity slightly, leading you up a series of left-leaning seams and finger cracks that are peppered with welcoming face holds. Here, the terrain is more continuous, allowing rhythm to develop as you negotiate 200 feet toward a belay spot near Central Chimney. Gear placements become more frequent, but smaller cams and nuts will be your currency along this length. Depending on conditions, an intermediate rappel station could be set on some less-than-ideal ledges, but steady route-finding will keep the momentum flowing.
The final pitch heads upward on lower-angle terrain, inviting a choice between following subtle off-width features or veering left toward Central Chimney’s summit ramp. Lichen dots parts of the rock, adding texture and a touch of slipperiness that demands attention to foot placement and balance. The move sequences here feel straightforward but remain engaging, leading you to a spacious belay at the summit plateau.
Black Dog stands out for its blend of crack climbing with a face crux that tightens the challenge at pitch one’s end. It’s a route that rewards those prepared for some runout sequences while providing solid protection across the rest of the climb. Essential gear includes a traditional rack complemented by extra small cams and nuts for the thinner cracks and seams encountered on pitch two. The route’s remote feel is enriched by views of the Poudre Canyon’s rugged backdrop, where the ever-present sounds of wind and the distant river keep you keyed into the wild environment.
When ticking this route off your list, timing is key. Spring and fall offer ideal conditions with cooler temperatures that help maintain friction on the rock, especially in the precarious sections of pitch one. Summer can bring hotter, less forgiving heat whereas winter climbs require caution due to potential ice and wet rock hazards. Footwear with sticky rubber is a must to handle the friction crux. Ensure adequate hydration and bring a helmet—loose rock is a possibility on the approach and at certain belays.
The approach to Black Dog is relatively straightforward from the Greyrock trailhead, a popular starting point in Poudre Canyon that requires about a 20-minute hike along forested paths. The trail winds gradually upward, weaving through pine and aspen, arriving at the base where the Southeast Face looms prominently. GPS coordinates 40.715, -105.2917 are your guideposts here. Overall, Black Dog offers a moderate but rewarding commitment, mixing classic crack climbing with a touch of face climbing intrigue that keeps your senses sharp and your adventure unmistakably alive.
Be cautious on the friction-based crux at the finish of pitch one where protection is scarce. Loose rock is possible at some belays, so wearing a helmet and careful route reading are essential. Watch for wet or lichen-covered patches, particularly late in the day or after rain.
Approach from the Greyrock trailhead, parking early to avoid crowds.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for the friction climbing crux on pitch one.
Plan to climb in spring or fall to avoid overheating and maximize friction.
Bring a helmet to protect against loose rock near belay ledges.
A standard trad rack suits pitch one well, but be sure to pack extra small cams and nuts for the thin, sustained finger cracks on pitch two. The route relies heavily on natural protection, with the crux section on pitch one requiring precise placement and confidence in sparse gear.
Estes Park
Estes Park
Estes Park
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