HomeClimbingBlack Diamond

Black Diamond at Kings Creek, Lassen National Park

Susanville, California United States
crack climbing
roof crux
top rope
trad gear
single pitch
PG13 rating
fir tree anchor
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Diamond
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Diamond at Kings Creek is an 80-foot trad and top-rope climb that challenges climbers with a reachy roof crux and a crack-lined corner. Perfect for those looking to sharpen crack technique and power through an engaging, moderately graded pitch in the heart of Lassen National Park."

Black Diamond at Kings Creek, Lassen National Park

Perched on the rugged face of Kings Creek’s cliff in Northeast California, Black Diamond offers an 80-foot climb that balances straightforward technique with a memorable, reach-dependent crux. As you approach the base, the route immediately grabs your focus—a low right-facing corner lined with a crack, inviting careful placement of cams from sizes 3 to 4 inches for protection. The rock here is solid but demands thoughtful gear management, especially with the PG13 rating signaling potential fall consequences.

The climb begins with steady moves up this corner, a section that rewards attention to hand jams and foot positioning. As you push beyond twenty vertical feet, the route veers from the corner, shifting right toward a distinctive diamond or triangle-shaped roof. This feature does more than mark the halfway point; it challenges the climber’s reach and power. The crux lies in pulling over this roof—an exposed move that requires a confident shoulder lock or a well-timed mantling maneuver. Climbers shorter than six feet might find themselves stretching deliberately to connect with the holds, emphasizing the physical negotiation between body and rock.

Above the roof, the holds open into welcoming jugs and pockets, offering a satisfying sense of release and progress on the final stretch. The top-out culminates at the highest point of the cliff where a solitary fir tree stands watch, its presence a natural anchor for setting up a top rope. Traditional lead here is possible but carries some risk, making the top-rope approach the safer and more common choice.

The setting around Black Diamond is quiet but commanding. The air carries the scent of pine and the whisper of wind through sparse foliage, creating an outdoor ambiance that's both fresh and focused on the task ahead. While Lassen National Park is celebrated for its volcanic landscapes and alpine forests, this climb provides a concentrated taste of vertical terrain that’s accessible yet stimulating.

Approaching Black Diamond is straightforward, with well-marked trails through forested slopes leading to the base. The route's moderate length and single pitch make it an excellent option for climbers looking to refine crack climbing skills and test their power over roof features. Be sure to bring a medium set of cams extending to 4 inches, climbing shoes with solid edging, and gloves or tape if you prefer extra hand protection.

Timing matters here. During summer and early fall, the wall basks in morning sun before shading into afternoon relief—ideal for avoiding midday heat. Winds can stir unexpectedly, so layering is wise. Always check recent weather reports and park regulations before heading out.

For descent, climbers can rappel from the top using anchors tied around the sturdy fir tree or walk off via a short, sometimes uneven trail around the cliff’s backside. The descent path can be loose in spots, so sturdy footwear with good grip is essential.

Black Diamond invites both local climbers and visiting adventurers to engage with its challenging features and natural beauty. It’s a climb that tests skill and respect for the rock while rewarding those who arrive prepared and focused.

Climber Safety

The route’s PG13 rating calls for clean and attentive gear placements, especially along the low right-facing corner. The single-pitch length and exposed roof crux mean falls can be serious if protection is missed. The descent trail can be loose and steep—take care navigating it with proper footwear.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Best climbed in morning to mid-afternoon for optimal sun exposure.

Bring a medium cam set up to 4 inches for secure placements.

The crux roof move requires a good reach—consider beta if under 6 feet tall.

Use sturdy shoes with good edging and consider taping hands for crack sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 PG13, Black Diamond feels solidly in the moderate trad range but the roof crux adds a technical challenge that lifts it slightly above a typical 5.8. The PG13 suggests cautious lead climbing, especially around the crack section. Climbers familiar with regional moderate trad routes will find this grade appropriate with a distinct, reachy crux that separates casual ascents from confident sends.

Gear Requirements

Medium set of cams extending to 4 inches is essential. Pay close attention when protecting the lower crack section with #3–4 camalots. Top-rope anchors can be built around the fir tree at the cliff’s highest point.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Black Diamond and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

crack climbing
roof crux
top rope
trad gear
single pitch
PG13 rating
fir tree anchor