HomeClimbingBlack Diamond

Black Diamond: A Raw Trad Challenge in Yosemite's High Country

Lee Vining, California United States
runout
r-rated
trad protection
alpine granite
high exposure
shared anchor
single pitch
Length: 165 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Diamond
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Diamond in Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows is a stark trad alpine climb where run-outs define every move. With a serious R rating and minimal protection, it calls on climbers to combine sharp skills and calm nerves for a raw granite experience."

Black Diamond: A Raw Trad Challenge in Yosemite's High Country

Black Diamond stands as a sharp contrast to the polished sport climbs Yosemite is famous for, offering a gritty, alpine trad experience that commands respect. Located in the legendary Tuolumne Meadows, this 165-foot single-pitch route delivers a serious test of mental grit as much as physical skill. Its 5.9 R rating warns climbers to prepare thoroughly—the run-out sections on this climb mean that every move counts. Unlike the more protected lines nearby, Black Diamond stretches the limits of traditional protection, with bolts spaced wide enough to keep you honest and ready for proactive gear placements. This route shares a bolted anchor with Wild in the Streaks, a slightly more moderate neighbor to the left, making it a natural follow-up for climbers seeking to push their edge in the alpine granite.

The approach to Black Diamond carries you through the high alpine environment of Tuolumne Meadows, a landscape defined by windswept granite meadows and shimmering mountain birch. From the trailhead, expect a reasonably straightforward hike of about 20 minutes over rocky ground, surrounded by the crisp air and open skies that define Yosemite’s high country. The wall faces northeast, catching the morning sun before plunging into shadow by mid-afternoon, so starting early helps warm your fingers and reinforces safe conditions.

Protection on Black Diamond is sparse and demands experience with both traditional and fixed gear. Climbers will find widely spaced bolts that may not inspire full confidence, requiring solid rack selection and careful placements in cracks and edges. Margins for error are slim—fitting for a route with a serious run-out warning. This climb isn’t a line for the faint-hearted or unprepared; it’s an exercise in composure, understanding your gear, and trust in your skill.

Descending after the climb is straightforward, rappelling down the shared anchor with Wild in the Streaks. Pay close attention while setting up the rappel to ensure all gear is secure, especially given the exposure here. Loose rock is minimal, but vigilance is always part of the alpine game. Weather can shift quickly in this zone, so be ready for brisk winds and sudden changes during your descent.

Black Diamond’s gritty, exposed character perfectly fits climbers looking to move beyond sport climbing into a realm where risk and reward balance on a knife edge. Its placement in Yosemite’s high country means you’re also treated to sweeping views of Tuolumne’s stark granite domes and the whisper of open wilderness around you. With adequate preparation—and a steady head—this climb delivers a memorable, raw alpine adventure that teaches respect for both the rock and mountain environment.

Climber Safety

Given the 'R' rating, falls here can result in serious injury due to the run-out nature of protection. The widely spaced bolts and alpine exposure mean climbers must place backup gear carefully and stay mentally sharp. Weather can shift rapidly in Tuolumne Meadows, so prepare for colder, windy conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length165 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of warm morning sun and stable weather.

Bring a full rack with small to medium cams to fill long bolt gaps.

Top-roping from Wild in the Streaks is a safer option for less confident leads.

Double-check anchor setup for the rappel before descending.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grade highlights the risk factor on Black Diamond—while the technical moves hover around 5.9, run-out sections elevate the mental challenge considerably. Climbers will find the grade feels stiff given the serious consequences of falls here, making it more demanding than standard 5.9 sport routes. Comparable climbs in the Tuolumne area also test gear placement skills, but Black Diamond stands out due to its sparse bolts and alpine setting.

Gear Requirements

Protection is sparse with widely spaced bolts that often require supplementing with solid traditional gear. Expect to place cams and nuts deliberately due to the R rating. The climb shares a bolted anchor with the adjacent route, Wild in the Streaks.

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Tags

runout
r-rated
trad protection
alpine granite
high exposure
shared anchor
single pitch