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Black Butterfly

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
crack climb
small cams
single pitch
Murrin Park
technical protection
coastal climbing
variable rock moisture
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Butterfly
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Butterfly offers a sharp, single-pitch trad climb on Murrin Park’s Bog Wall that edges past its neighbor Veils of Illusion in difficulty. Its clean crack line demands focused technique and careful gear placement, making it a compelling challenge for crack climbers seeking a direct, tactile route in Squamish’s iconic climbing terrain."

Black Butterfly

Black Butterfly commands attention along The Bog Wall in Squamish’s rugged Murrin Park, offering a focused, single-pitch trad climb that lures climbers with its clean crack line etched sharply on the far right side of the formation. It challenges with a 5.9 rating that tends to push climbers just beyond the comfort zone of its neighboring route, Veils of Illusion, edging into harder terrain that demands both precise technique and mental grit. The rock’s texture invites your hands to explore its fissures as you ascend through fifty feet of intricate moves, the crack transforming as you progress—sometimes welcoming, sometimes testing your finesse.

The Bog Wall itself sits within a bustling climbing area where slick moss patches give way to drier, sun-hit stone. The environment around Black Butterfly offers a tactile experience: crisp air wrapping around forested slopes, the occasional birdsong paling beneath the distant hum of water rushing nearby. The approach is approachable yet still feels wild, threading through stands of fir and cedar, letting you prepare mentally and physically before you step onto the route.

Protection here leans toward smaller gear—SR-sized cams fit best, and placements demand careful thought. The quality of protection is solid overall, but the crack’s nature forces you to think strategically about each placement. This isn’t a climb for gear novices; those venturing onto Black Butterfly will appreciate a rack tuned to micro to small cams for secure anchors.

Timing your climb to avoid lingering moisture is key in this coastal zone. Mornings often hold the driest rock, while mid-afternoon sun can warm the face just enough to dry residual dampness without making holds slippery under hand or foot. The climb’s single pitch allows for a quick but satisfying session, ideal for days when you want to sharpen crack climbing skills without committing to bigger walls.

Once atop, the descent is straightforward—a short rappel or easy downclimb returns you to the forest floor and the trailhead. Squamish’s Murrin Park, known for its accessibility and varied routes, offers the chance to recombine your day's adventure with hikes or other climbs nearby, making Black Butterfly a practical yet thrilling addition to your climbing itinerary.

Approach tips: start early to find dry holds and enjoy cooler temps, pack gear favoring small cams, and wear solid shoes with strong edging capability. The route’s exposed crack demands attention to footwork and steady breathing, rewarding competence with confident movement and a satisfying send. Black Butterfly is a crisp slice of Squamish trad climbing—grounded, direct, and alive with the textures and challenges of real crack climbing.

Climber Safety

Watch for occasional moss or moisture patches near the route’s base and the first few feet, especially after rain. Protection placements are solid but require experience to avoid running sections. The rappel anchors are established but confirm all gear before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to find dry rock before coastal moisture settles in.

Wear shoes with good edging and sticky rubber for the crack’s variable width.

Double-check slack and anchor gear before the rappel descent.

Use a moderate approach pace through forested trails to stay warm but avoid sweating.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels true to standard with an added layer of technicality due to tight, sometimes awkward crack moves that test footwork and gear placements. It’s a notch harder than nearby Veils of Illusion, especially if you aren’t accustomed to delicate jammed footwork. This climb rewards steady, confident technique rather than raw power.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on small to micro cams, especially SR sizes, to gear the crack effectively. Placements require thoughtful positioning; wide pro pieces are limited.

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Tags

crack climb
small cams
single pitch
Murrin Park
technical protection
coastal climbing
variable rock moisture