HomeClimbingBlack Angus

Black Angus at Mad Cow Wall

Big Bear Lake, California United States
right-arching crack
single pitch
granite
trad climbing
Big Bear
desert mountain
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Angus
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A focused single-pitch trad climb on Mad Cow Wall, Black Angus invites climbers to follow a sweeping right-arching crack with solid granite and moderate protection opportunities. Ideal for trad climbers refining crack technique in the less busy corners of Big Bear’s rugged high desert."

Black Angus at Mad Cow Wall

Black Angus stands as a focused, single-pitch trad climb carved into the broad expanse of Mad Cow Wall, a rugged feature within the Central Pinnacles of the San Bernardino Mountains. This route demands a confident approach, beginning on the left flank of the wall where a distinct right-arching crack and flaky system direct your movements. The climb moves steadily upward toward a notch just beside the more famous Wild Kingdom route, rewarding climbers with a compact and sharp sequence of moves packed into approximately 50 feet of vertical action.

The rock here is solid granite, textured with a weathered face that provides dependable friction but requires careful footwork—especially when placing protection. Expect the angles to shift gracefully as the crack sweeps overhead, inviting a blend of hand jams and mindful placements. For gear, camming devices up to three inches fit snugly into the mostly intermittent protection opportunities, reinforcing the need for a steady rack that balances range without excess weight.

Mad Cow Wall itself is perched within the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, offering climbers a chance to engage with a somewhat raw and less trafficked slice of Big Bear’s climbing scene. The surrounding environment leans into classic high-desert mountain character: piñon pines and Jeffrey pines cling to rocky benches while the sun illuminates the granite face throughout the late morning and early afternoon. This south-facing wall basks in warmth during cooler months but can become hot under the summer sun, so timing your ascent for early hours or late afternoons can greatly enhance comfort.

Approach access is straightforward, with a dirt path from the Central Pinnacles parking area leading climbers through sparse forest and rocky terrain. Expect a hike of about 15 to 20 minutes across uneven ground that hints at the rugged nature ahead. GPS coordinates align well with the given location: 34.30789 latitude and -116.878 longitude.

For climbers aiming to try Black Angus, preparation counts: sturdy, sticky-soled shoes that grip granite and a set of cams tuned to smaller sizes will carry you through the climb safely. Hydration is key here—the dry mountain air dries your throat quickly, and the wall offers little shade midday. Even with a modest star rating, the route offers satisfying technical moves and a solid introduction to trad climbing on the area’s character-filled granite.

In terms of safety, note that protection placements can be spaced out, so attention to gear confidence and fall readiness is crucial. The notch finish isn’t exposed to major ledges but demands a clean exit to maintain control.

In all, Black Angus offers a compelling, no-frills climb for those ready to engage a fun crack system on a quieter wall in a classic Southern California mountain setting. It’s a route that balances raw adventure with achievable difficulty, perfect for the trader looking to sharpen their crack climbing skills and enjoy the less crowded side of the Big Bear climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Protection opportunities can be intermittent; ensure your cam placements are solid before committing to moves. The rock is generally reliable but requires mindful footwork and attention to personal safety margin.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Bring plenty of water; the dry mountain air dehydrates quickly.

Check gear placements carefully; protection can be sparse in sections.

Approach hike takes 15-20 minutes on uneven terrain—wear sturdy shoes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Black Angus carries a 5.10a rating that feels precise but fair, with a technical crux linked to clever use of the crack system. Compared to other Big Bear trad routes of similar grades, it offers a confident introduction to crack climbing without overly sustained difficulty, making it approachable yet rewarding.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack focused on cams up to 3 inches for steady protection placements. Sticky-soled climbing shoes offer necessary grip on granite’s textured surface.

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Tags

right-arching crack
single pitch
granite
trad climbing
Big Bear
desert mountain