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Black and White Movies: A Remote Trad Climb on Tijeras Peak

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
trad crack
alpine climbing
5-pitch
mossy seams
remote
gneiss rock
Length: 550 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Black and White Movies
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black and White Movies is a remote 5-pitch trad climb on Tijeras Peak in Colorado’s Sangre de Cristo Range. Known for its striking gneiss features and alpine exposure, it offers a demanding yet rewarding adventure for trad climbers craving solitude and scenic views."

Black and White Movies: A Remote Trad Climb on Tijeras Peak

Set against the stark ridges of Colorado’s Sangre de Cristo Range, Black and White Movies offers a distinctive trad climbing experience on Tijeras Peak’s southeast-facing wall. The route immediately commands attention with a striking triangular roof hanging above a modest boulder cave — a starting point that demands focus amid the quiet, rugged alpine environment. The first pitch unfolds on an unprotected ramp, characterized by well-defined holds on its right side, leading into a series of diagonal steps that cross sharp black water streaks cut into the black and white gneiss. These streaks aren't just visual contrasts; they challenge your footwork and balance as you navigate the ledge system. Although the cracks appear generous from below, a closer inspection reveals moss-filled shallow seams that test your placement tactics and require precise gear choices.

Covering 550 feet across five pitches, this climb embraces a mix of sustained movements and technical smarts. The second pitch shifts to a 5.7 difficulty, guiding you right from the ledge past a large triangular flake. The climbing eases progressively along a diagonal ramp toward a slopey belay station. The high point is a subtle crest on the lower east ridge, offering an unexpected reward — a commanding vantage point overlooking Lower Sand Creek Lake. The panoramic view of water threading through pine-lined shores is a moment that reconnects you with the remote wildness that wraps this climb.

This route blends alpine exposure with classic trad challenges, demanding caution, precision, and a solid rack to match its natural features. The route’s protection calls for a full trad rack, emphasizing slider nuts and short blades to handle the often tricky placements amid mossy seams. Expect some runouts on the first pitch if you’re carrying the solitude of remote climbing to heart, but the payoff in both scenery and style is undeniable.

The approach is a purposeful trek into wilderness, offering a forested pathway that gradually opens into the high alpine rock faces where Black and White Movies lives. Climbing here requires respect for the unpredictable weather and conditions common at this elevation, as well as readiness for the descent, which loops northwest from the summit region. Whether you're aspiring to sharpen crack skills or simply want to experience a quiet, uncompromising alpine route, this climb delivers both in spades. Stay prepared, pace yourself, and let the mountain’s contrasts guide your movements on this memorable Sangre de Cristo line.

Climber Safety

The route includes extended runouts and moss-covered cracks that can deceive gear security. Approach protection with caution, and be prepared for variable conditions on the southeast wall’s exposed pitches.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches5
Length550 feet

Local Tips

Carry a full trad rack, including slider nuts and short blade cams for tricky placements.

Start early to avoid afternoon weather and get the best light on the southeast wall.

Check the moss condition on cracks before committing to gear placements.

Descend northwest from the summit; be mindful of loose terrain and route-finding.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 R, this climb includes runouts that reflect the route’s remote character rather than technical extremes. The difficulty feels true to grade, with a sustained crux on delicate holds over mossy seams. Compared to nearby alpine routes, the R rating reminds climbers to carefully evaluate gear placements and remain vigilant.

Gear Requirements

Prepare a full trad rack emphasizing slider nuts and short blades to protect moss-filled cracks and seams. Bring gear for extended runouts on the first pitch.

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Tags

trad crack
alpine climbing
5-pitch
mossy seams
remote
gneiss rock