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Black and Tan Trad Climb on Saguaro Slab

Mammoth Lakes, California USA
flared crack
trad
single pitch
PG13
Mammoth Lakes
granite
Rock Creek
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black and Tan
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black and Tan challenges trad climbers with a sharp 5.10a flared crack on Saguaro Slab’s sunlit granite face. A concise but demanding pitch, it’s perfect for climbers eager to refine crack techniques amid the scenic vistas of the Sierra Eastside."

Black and Tan Trad Climb on Saguaro Slab

Black and Tan offers a bold, single-pitch trad adventure on the rugged granite of Saguaro Slab, just above the quieter stretches of Rock Creek in the Mammoth Lakes area. The climb ascends a flared crack positioned to the right of the more popular bolted flake known as Morning After. This crack presents climbers with a demanding 5.10a PG13 challenge that requires a blend of technical finger-to-hand jam skills and careful gear placement. The slab itself is a broad, sun-dappled granite face that rewards steady focus with expansive views of the Sierra Eastside’s high country.

The climb's 100-foot length is ideal for those looking to test their crack climbing prowess without committing to a multi-pitch route. The rock surface holds a firm texture that both encourages secure hand jams and demands precise footwork, giving climbers a real sense of dialogue with the crack. Four quickdraws, supplemented with traditional protection up to 2 inches, are necessary to safeguard the ascent. The route shares a rappel anchor with Morning After, streamlining the descent.

Approaching Black and Tan, anglers and hikers in the area will notice the rich variety of granite formations and the steady murmur of Rock Creek, whose waters seem to nudge climbers onward. The trail approach is moderate and straightforward, making this an accessible option for those looking to experience solid Sierra granite without the lengthy trek common on some Mammoth peaks. Morning sun warms the slab into late morning, but the climbing is best pursued in cooler parts of the day to keep hands dry and friction high.

Given the PG13 rating, climbers should be prepared for a few runout sections that test commitment and mental control, particularly where protection placements become sparse or tricky. Nails on your feet, strong jamming technique, and patience will be your greatest allies here. Local insight recommends bringing an extra nut or cam in the 1.5-2 inch range to fill any unexpected gaps. Expect the route to feel challenging but fair for intermediate to advanced trad climbers, a worthwhile push for anyone sharpening their crack skills in the Eastern Sierras.

When planning your day, factor in hydration, as water sources aside from Rock Creek may be limited depending on season and location. Early starts will help you avoid afternoon heat and afternoon thunderstorms common in summer. The descent via rappel is straightforward, but always double-check anchors and knot security before lowering off. With careful preparation and respect for the crack’s demands, Black and Tan makes for an unpretentious yet invigorating introduction to the rich granite climbs around Mammoth Lakes.

Climber Safety

Watch for runout sections where protective gear can be less frequent or tricky to place; fall potential is real. Also, granite can become slick if wet, so avoid climbing after rain or heavy dew. Confirm rappel anchors before descent, as shared bolts may see wear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid mid-day heat and maintain dry hands for better friction.

Check local weather; summer afternoons often bring thunderstorms to the Sierra.

Bring at least an extra cam/stopper in the 1.5-2 inch range for tricky placements.

Use the shared rappel anchors with Morning After for a safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a PG13 grade reflects a climb that feels moderately stiff with a few runout moves where protection becomes sparse. The crux lies in the technical finger jams and trusting less-than-ideal pro placements, demanding confidence in crack climbing. Compared to nearby routes like Morning After, Black and Tan is slightly more sustained on crack technique, making it a solid progression step for local trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

Bring four quickdraws and a full set of traditional gear up to 2 inches to protect the flared crack. Gear placements can be challenging; cams in the 1.5 to 2 inch range are especially useful for securing runout sections.

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Tags

flared crack
trad
single pitch
PG13
Mammoth Lakes
granite
Rock Creek