"Bish at Escape Rock offers two pitches of engaging sport climbing featuring a long traverse and technical crack sequences. This moderate 5.8 is perfect for climbers ready to explore multi-pitch routes in Joshua Tree’s iconic desert setting."
Bish offers a compelling sport climbing experience on the imposing Northeast Face of Escape Rock, located in the rugged Barker Dam Area of Joshua Tree National Park. Starting from the summit of Lubricated Goat, this route challenges climbers to navigate a twisting traverse that moves right across a broad dike, intersecting with the well-known Emotional Rescue route. The movement is punctuated by multiple fixed points and bolts, requiring steady footwork and deliberate body positioning as you cross two distinct crack systems. The first pitch ends at a secure double-bolt belay stance, giving you a chance to catch your breath and prepare for the next stretch.
The second pitch offers a change of pace by stepping left into a comfortable, wide crack system. This segment climbs about 40 feet to the top of the route, where another two-bolt belay awaits. The textured crack invites you to engage with traditional crack climbing techniques while still relying on solid sport protection. Reaching the summit here gives a satisfying conclusion to the technical climbing and a clear spot to anchor.
Descent requires care and planning. Unlike simpler rappels, you cannot descend Lubricated Goat’s face in a single rope drop. Two ropes are necessary, or you must break up the rappel into two sections—first down to a pronounced flake in a nearby gully, then a shorter rappel or a sensible downclimb for the final stretch. Some climbers choose to rappel directly from the belay at the end of the traverse to start the descent sequence. Whatever your method, avoid rappelling off the ends of your ropes to ensure safety.
Escape Rock itself sits in a unique area of Joshua Tree, offering sun-drenched, textured granite perfect for climbers seeking varied routes with moderate grades. Bish’s 5.8 rating situates it well for intermediate climbers looking to sharpen skills on traverses and crack climbs without excessive exposure. The 150-foot length spread across two pitches creates a dynamic climb with enough diversity to hold interest and test technique.
For gear, pack a collection of quickdraws—around ten will cover the fixed points along the traverse—and be ready to trust the bolts that pepper the route. The combination of sport fixed protection and crack climbing keeps the gear lite but demands vigilance in clip placements. Planning water, timing your climb for the cooler morning hours, and wearing solid footwear with sticky rubber are all straightforward steps to keep your climb smooth and enjoyable.
This route balances a moderate technical challenge with the raw beauty of Joshua Tree’s boulder-strewn deserts and distant mountain views, making it a worthy addition for anyone exploring the Barker Dam area. Its moderate commitment and varied features provide an excellent learning ground for climbers eager to move beyond single-pitch sport climbs and engage with multi-pitch movement under open skies.
Descent requires multiple rappels with a potential need for two ropes. Avoid rappelling off the ends of your rope and ensure your rigging is secure to prevent hang-ups on the loose flake anchor. Keep an eye on rock quality in the descent gully to avoid dislodging loose debris.
Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on Escape Rock’s northeast face.
Bring two ropes to rappel Lubricated Goat safely or plan a two-part rappel using the flake in the gully.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for better grip on slabby sections between cracks.
Check weather forecast carefully—Joshua Tree’s desert conditions can change quickly.
Prepare about ten quickdraws to clip into the fixed bolts and anchors throughout the traverse. No traditional gear required, but smooth clipping and solid foot placements are essential. Helmets advised for possible rockfall during descent.
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