"Birds of the Sun presents five pitches of demanding trad climbing in Squamish, featuring sustained hand and finger cracks punctuated by exposed traverses and a tricky groove finish. It's a route that blends technical finesse with thrilling exposure, perfect for climbers seeking a well-rounded pitch-by-pitch challenge."
Birds of the Sun carves a compelling path through Squamish’s legendary granite, inviting climbers into a hands-on puzzle of crack systems, exposed traverses, and a balance-testing groove finale. Sharing its opening pitches with the classic Birds of Prey, this route demands technical precision and steady nerves from the first hand and finger jams to the delicate, airy moves that thread across the face. The first pitch offers a sustained 70 meters of finger and hand cracks, perfect for climbers who thrive on clean natural protection and solid jams. As you ascend, the rock changes character — pitch two shifts focus to a careful traverse along exposed ledges, requiring purposeful foot placement and a calm composure at height. Moving into the midsection, pitch three eases onto a slab that winds around a tree, giving eyes a break before the route intensifies again.
Pitch four confronts you with a corner system demanding a mix of crack technique and face holds, pushing your ability to read challenging rock features under moderate but sustained difficulty. The final pitch is a test of balance and control, where a quirky groove angles right and forces climbers to rely on subtle footwork and a confident compression move to gain a loose hold that wobbles under pressure. This finish rewards focus and smooth movement, ending on a slab that offers breath-catching views of the surrounding cliffs and forest below.
Located in the Squamish area of British Columbia, Birds of the Sun stands as a technical gem for trad enthusiasts comfortable with sustained 5.10 climbing and some exposed sections. The route rises roughly 400 feet over five pitches and requires gear to protect finger and hand cracks, plus the flexibility for varied placements up to large cams. Dry, warm days in spring through early fall provide the best conditions to tackle this line, which can feel cool and slick in off seasons. Planning your approach involves a straightforward trail that passes well-spaced forest and granite outcroppings, guiding you within reach of the base quickly and efficiently. Bring sturdy climbing shoes with precise edging ability and prepare for a moderate hike-in through a mix of forest and rock slabs.
To maximize your experience, practice steady hand jams and exposed traverses ahead of time, as the route demands committed moves with protection frequently spaced on challenging cracks. The anchors are bolted, easing belay transitions even in exposed spots. Assess your rack carefully—this route asks for a double rack of cams from small purple Metolius equivalents to #3 Camalots, plus nuts for smaller placements. Two votes slightly understate its appeal; this climb rewards those ready to engage with Squamish’s classic granite crack climbing on a route that blends adventure with technical demands in equal measure.
The exposed traverse on pitch two demands focused foot placement and calm nerves; a slip here could lead to a long fall. Rock quality is solid but be cautious of loose flakes near the tree on pitch three. Ensure all gear is well-tested and approach the descent carefully to avoid scrambling hazards.
Aim for dry weather and avoid early season moisture that can slick the cracks.
Use climbing shoes with strong edging capability for slab and traverse sections.
Approach via the well-marked trail past the base of Birds of Prey for a 20-minute walk-in.
Check your gear thoroughly; finger-sized cams and reliable nuts protect the steep handcracks best.
Bring a double rack of cams from small purple Metolius equivalents up to #3 Camalots, complemented by a single set of nuts to cover tricky placements along the cracks. Fixed bolts mark anchor points, easing belay transitions on this technical line.
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