"Birdland offers classic trad climbing on the steep, well-featured South Slabs of Greyrock. Its friction-dependent moves and nuanced gear placements provide a rewarding challenge for climbers refining technique in a stunning Colorado setting."
Birdland occupies the sharp, right flank of the Lower Tier in Colorado’s South Slabs—a stretch of Greyrock that demands deliberate footwork and attentive gear placement. Despite the intimidating steepness that greets climbers from the ground, this route lays out a series of manageable face moves that reward with solid friction and subtle features. From the base, near a clear pothole etched into the rock, you begin by negotiating a set of slightly awkward bolts—consider clipping only the second bolt with a long sling to ease the rope drag that intensifies near the pitch’s top. The initial moves direct you leftward into a groove that glimmers with mineral deposits, offering pockets to steady your balance. Passing a couple more bolts here, you reach a right-facing crack that signals the route’s crux: a short but demanding friction section requiring careful smearing and precise nut placements.
The groove and crack interplay commands respect, as the rock’s texture shifts between polished slabs and water-streaked patches that subtly test your confidence underfoot. A few thin friction moves push the limits of attention to detail before the path opens to easier terrain where anchors await. Protection requires finesse—4 bolts remain, but climbers are advised to rely primarily on stoppers, as the bolt situation has changed in recent years. The route’s modest length of 120 feet and a single pitch make it a perfect half-day outing, especially for climbers looking to sharpen gear skills on tricky friction while savoring views of the surrounding Greyrock area.
Accessing Birdland involves a moderate hike through Poudre Canyon’s pine-needle-strewn slopes leading to the South Slabs. The trail is clear but demands awareness of loose rock along the approach, taking about 20 minutes from the nearest access point. The climb’s right-side aspect catches afternoon sun, heating the granite just enough for dry friction without overwhelming heat – optimal conditions arrive in spring and fall when the air is cool and stable. Given the sparse fixed gear in this section, bringing a full rack of nuts and cams is essential, alongside slings for long draws to manage drag on the bolts present.
Descending means a careful walk-off down the slabby terrain back to the base, but caution is needed as the rock can be slick when wet. Always check current conditions and be prepared for the rock’s variable texture here, which challenges both comfort and technical skill. Birdland stands out as a compelling option for trad climbers craving a focused route where strategy, steadiness, and route reading come together in a climb that is approachable but never trivial.
Be aware that the bolt anchors and chains previously present in this area have been removed, so climbers must rely on natural protection. The approach features loose rock patches—proceed carefully. The slabby rock can be slick when damp, especially during early morning or after rain.
Avoid clipping the first bolt to reduce rope drag issues on this short pitch.
Bring a complete set of stoppers for critical placements in the crack section.
Approach trail can be slippery with loose rock, wear sturdy shoes and watch your step.
Afternoon sun warms the climb well; spring and fall offer the best temperatures.
Four bolts are present but clipping the first bolt is optional to reduce rope drag. A solid rack of stoppers is vital for this route, as the protection relies heavily on natural placements. Nuts are essential, and cams of small to medium sizes will complement the gear needed for the right-facing crack.
Estes Park
Estes Park
Estes Park
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