"Bird on a Wire is a focused trad route on Eagle Rock’s left face, testing climbers with sparse gear options and steady moves over 50 feet. Its mix of ledges and a tricky traverse demands precise protection placement and careful footwork."
Bird on a Wire offers a compact but engaging trad climb on the face below the roof at Powdered Greens, tucked along the left side of Eagle Rock in Welsford, New Brunswick. This route tests your gear judgment as much as your climbing technique, with sections of sparse protection that push the climber to stay alert and deliberate. The climb begins just beneath a striking roof feature, where the first move involves clipping a solitary piton, a reminder that protection here requires vigilance and patience. From this anchor point, the line veers left along a smooth traverse, leading onto ledges that reward the effort with solid stances and brief respite.
Continuing upward, the climb shifts boldly straight, passing several solid ledges that offer crucial spots to rest or place gear carefully. The route culminates at the Linghall ledge, an exposed perch that opens views of the surrounding rugged cliffs, or for those feeling confident, a final push leads onto the corner system of Lilly, extending the challenge.
Eagle Rock’s landscape unfolds around you with a rugged northern coastal vibe — the exposed rock catches the changing light, while nearby forests murmur in the distance. The climb’s single pitch spans roughly 50 feet of vertical juts and smooth plateaus, demanding steady footwork on varying stone texture. Expect to place standard protection up to one inch, but be mindful that placements can be few and require precise judgment. This is not a route for those looking to blast up with quick draws; instead, it invites measured, tactical climbing.
Approaching the climb is straightforward from the Welsford area, a gateway to some of New Brunswick’s finest trad routes. The terrain is approachable but carries a rugged wilderness feel, that sets the tone for adventure. Timing your climb for midday can avoid early morning dampness on the rock, yet afternoon shadows provide some cool relief on sunny days.
Whether you're honing your gear skills or hunting a compact trad challenge with character, Bird on a Wire delivers with a crisp route that stands out for its subtle complexity and the necessity to read the rock step-by-step. Proper footwear with secure edging will aid the sparse holds, and carrying a balanced rack ensures you can protect the line smoothly without overpacking. Keep an eye on the weather and respect the remote nature of the climb — it remains a quiet draw for those who prefer routes with straightforward logistics yet thoughtful climbing sequences.
Protection is limited and somewhat tricky, especially under the roof at the start—climbers should place gear carefully and not skip placements. The rock is stable but be alert to runouts between ledges. Weather can affect grip, so avoid wet conditions and check forecasts before heading out.
Start beneath the roof with focus; clipping the piton early builds confidence.
Move left along the traverse to reach secure ledges before pushing straight upward.
Wear shoes with good edging to handle the smoother rock sections.
Plan for midday climbing to avoid moisture but watch for afternoon shadows.
A standard rack up to 1 inch is needed, but expect tricky placements—don’t hesitate to secure gear whenever the opportunity arises, especially early on under the roof where the piton is the only fixed piece.
Upload your photos of Bird on a Wire and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.