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Birch Tree Crack: Classic Trad Climb at The Paper Wall

Kama Bay, Canada
trad crack
single pitch
wide cam placements
exposed ledge
rappel descent
lake views
boreal forest
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Birch Tree Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Birch Tree Crack is a classic 90-foot trad climb at The Paper Wall that guides you up a distinct crack line beside the eponymous birch tree. It blends steady technical moves with straightforward protection, set amid expansive views overlooking Kama Bay."

Birch Tree Crack: Classic Trad Climb at The Paper Wall

Birch Tree Crack poses an inviting challenge for trad climbers venturing into The Paper Wall, perched above Kama Bay in Ontario. This single-pitch classic ushers you onto a wide, exposed ledge just two meters above the base trail, setting the tone for a straightforward yet rewarding climb. The route follows a distinct crack line that gains height steadily, with the birch tree jutting from the rock acting as both a natural landmark and subtle guiding companion as you move upward. The crack demands attention to gear placements—extra-wide cams like #4 and #5 sizes slot smoothly into the fissures, allowing for secure protection as you make your ascent. Expect solid rock with enough texture to keep your feet honest and hands engaged.

Start your approach by hiking from the parking area near Kama Lookout, a short but steep scramble leads directly to the base trail. From there, a brief climb up to the belay ledge sets you for the climb ahead. The ledge itself is wide and protective, the perfect space to organize gear and prepare for the move up the crack above. As you climb, the birch tree to your right offers a natural focus point—nearly saying hold on tight as the terrain keeps you poised on the edge of the wall.

The route covers about 90 feet and culminates in a spacious top anchor. While the climb is a moderate 5.9, the overall experience holds a grounded challenge — there’s nothing sudden about its difficulty, but the length and exposure keep you alert. For the descent, rappelling remains the safest choice, using rap bolts on the left side of the summit near the project line currently closed to climbers. Alternatively, build your anchor off the large tree set a little back from the cliff edge.

Beyond the climb itself, the Paper Wall offers sweeping views over Kama Bay and the surrounding boreal forest. The area presents a quiet but powerful outdoor experience, where the elements play an active role: the wind teasing branches, the sun shifting shadows across the rock face, and the distant call of wildlife reminding you this is a living landscape. This climb fits perfectly for trad climbers seeking a blend of technical crack work and peaceful immersion in a rugged northern spot.

Remember to pack a full trad rack focused on wider cams, as the protection quality directly affects comfort and safety on the route. Shoes with firm edging capabilities will help secure footholds along the crack. Timing your climb during dry conditions is key—wet rock can become slippery and unsafe, especially with the exposed ledge near the start. Sunrise to mid-morning light brings ideal visibility and softer temperatures during warmer months, making your ascent more enjoyable.

Birch Tree Crack is an accessible but true test of crack climbing skills and gear placement judgment in a scenic area less crowded than southern Ontario’s popular crags. It’s a solid choice for climbers sharpening their trad repertoire or seeking a memorable outdoor setting to reconnect with the basics of vertical movement. With a bit of planning and respect for the rugged nature of the Paper Wall, this route unfolds as a rewarding chapter in any trad climber’s journey.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the initial ledge, as it is wide but exposed, requiring secure footing during belay setup. The descent rappel uses bolts on a currently closed project line—ensure you respect access restrictions and check conditions before attempting rappels.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start your approach early to avoid afternoon winds that sweep across the wall.

Wear climbing shoes with good edging to manage the crack’s varied holds.

Park near Kama Lookout and expect a short but steep scramble to the base trail.

Pack extra slings for anchor building off the large tree at the summit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Birch Tree Crack offers a moderate challenge that rewards consistent crack climbing skills without hidden surprises. The length and sustained crack movement provide steady effort, making this route feel appropriately graded—not soft, but also accessible compared to more technical local climbs. The rock quality here encourages confidence in gear placements, although wider cams are a must.

Gear Requirements

A trad rack complete with extra-wide cams is essential—sizes #4 and #5 are especially useful to protect the main crack. Smaller gear may not hold as reliably in the wide fissures, so come prepared with bulkier protection to cover the key placements.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
wide cam placements
exposed ledge
rappel descent
lake views
boreal forest