HomeClimbingBioluminescence

Bioluminescence: A High Sierra Alpine Trad Climb

Bishop, California United States
right-leaning offwidth
slab climbing
long rappels
alpine exposure
multi-pitch
crack system
moderate trad
Length: 1500 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
9
Location
Bioluminescence
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Climb Bioluminescence for a sustained, moderate trad adventure along granite corners and dihedrals topped with vibrant green lichen. This nine-pitch High Sierra route blends hands-on crack climbing with alpine exposure for an unforgettable ascent."

Bioluminescence: A High Sierra Alpine Trad Climb

Bioluminescence climbs steadily and confidently up Tuttle Slab’s towering granite face, offering an alpine trad route that balances moderate difficulty with sustained exposure. Named for the striking green lichen that dots the rock like living paint, this 1500-foot ascent unfolds across nine pitches, each revealing a fresh angle on High Sierra’s rugged beauty. From the moment your fingers find purchase on the immense right-leaning offwidth of pitch one, you’re invited into a world where the rock asserts its presence with bold features, while the surrounding peaks stand watch like silent sentinels.

Beginning with a challenging 5.9 pitch, the climb launches up a sweeping arching corner. It demands commitment, both physical and mental, as you navigate wide cracks that beg for big cams and precise jamming. Notably, the first pitch requires a careful selection of gear—5 to 6-inch cams will serve you here but can be stashed at the ledge belay since the route’s upper sections don’t need them. For those seeking a more exposed, runout challenge, a variation to the right offers thinner cracks and subtle holds, though it’s less protected and better suited for experienced climbers comfortable with risk and dirtier rock.

Pitch two offers a welcome breather with easier climbing that meanders up corners and ledges, setting a rhythm and letting you catch your breath before more sustained effort. Pitch three, aptly nicknamed the Fake-out Dihedral, shifts the tone with slab climbing that leads toward an obliging dihedral. This section is rewarding — its subtle angles hide a feature that cleverly bypasses the widest, flared sections of the rock, easing the difficulty while maintaining engagement.

As you push higher, the climbing revolves around a series of right-facing corners and dihedrals, each pitch presenting varied handcrack jamming and occasional roof bulges. Pitch five’s prominent corner section is particularly memorable, featuring flared pods demanding solid hand jams, followed by a delicate transition to a less obvious two-bolt belay spot, rewarding climbers who keep their focus even in moderate terrain.

Pitch six requires nimble footwork and aggressive hand jams, especially as you navigate around an obstructive tree that seems to guard the line mid-route. The following pitches deliver parallel crack systems and airy aretes, where the rock’s soul shines brightest. Pitch eight stands out as a highlight, a full-value climb that mixes powerful moves on a handcrack before easing into a series of lower-angle cracks that hug the edge. The exposure here sharpens the senses — the rock feels alive, challenging your balance and concentration on every move.

The final pitch continues this trend, hugging the slab’s edge until the rock rolls over toward the summit plateau. The route culminates with sweeping views across the High Sierra and a quiet moment to absorb the accomplishment before beginning the descent.

The rappel sequence requires two 60-meter ropes and careful attention: nearly every rappel spans the full 200 feet of the pitches, with anchors well established but often perched on narrow ledges. The descent demands respect, with some rappels involving tree anchors and variable rock quality.

Climbing Bioluminescence calls for a solid double rack of cams up to 3 inches, with one set each of 4 to 6 inch cams dedicated to the first pitch. The route’s protection is generally sound, but the runout variation on the first pitch exposes climbers to greater risk, so plan accordingly. Timing your ascent for clear, dry weather maximizes grip on the slab and reduces exposure to high alpine hazards. Footwear with sticky rubber and comfortable fit is essential for the slabby moves and crack jams encountered throughout.

With its compelling mix of sustained moderate climbing, bold cracks, and breathtaking alpine setting, Bioluminescence offers a memorable adventure for trad climbers ready to test endurance and technique amidst the High Sierra’s grand terrain.

Climber Safety

Rappels are nearly all around 200 feet and occasionally rely on tree anchors—double-check anchor integrity before committing. The rock is generally solid but some sections have thin, exposed ledges; maintaining focus on secure placements is critical.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches9
Length1500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the slab sections.

Place larger cams on the first pitch carefully; those are your protection crux.

Watch your footing on the cleaner cracks and aretes; sticky rubber shoes improve security.

Be prepared for long rappels—check your rappel gear and knot your ropes before descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on this route feels well calibrated, with the hardest moves confined mainly to the first pitch’s wide offwidth and the occasional crux moves on moderate crack jams. The grade leans toward the softer side for experienced crack climbers but demands solid technique and endurance over multiple pitches. The climb compares favorably with other High Sierra moderate trad routes in commitment and exposure.

Gear Requirements

Bring a double rack of cams up to 3 inches and one set each of 4-6 inch cams for the first pitch; leave bigger cams at the ledge. Two 60-meter ropes are essential for the long rappels.

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Tags

right-leaning offwidth
slab climbing
long rappels
alpine exposure
multi-pitch
crack system
moderate trad