"Binky of the Mountains is a compact 40-foot sport climb in Colorado’s Wolcott Crags, dedicated to a beloved friend. Offering secure bolted protection and a lively 5.9 challenge, it rewards climbers with textured movement and a chance to reflect amid stunning alpine surroundings."
Perched within the striking Upper Tier of the Bocco Area at Wolcott Crags, Binky of the Mountains offers climbers a concise but memorable outing on Colorado’s rugged granite. Dedicated to Mikey Brown—known affectionately as Binky—the climb carries the weight of friendship and loss, inviting each ascent to be more than just a physical challenge. As you step onto the rock, the cool mountain air brushes against your face, the low hum of wind through nearby pine branches accompanies your movement, and the granite’s textured surface demands precise holds and focused energy.
Though brief at 40 feet, this 5.9 sport route features five well-placed bolts leading to secure chain anchors, creating a reliable and accessible experience for climbers ready to push beyond beginner terrain. The climb’s location, just right of the easier 5.6 route known as CC, offers a natural progression for those looking to test skills without committing to lengthy pitches. The rock here is solid, with texture that invites finger and hand jams interspersed with smooth sections requiring balance and controlled movement.
The approach is straightforward, guiding adventurers through a lightly forested path that opens to the expansive crag system. The climb’s compact nature allows for a quick but invigorating session, perfect for fitting into half-day climbing plans or for warming up before tackling other more demanding routes in the area. The elevation here hovers near 8,300 feet, meaning you’ll want to stay hydrated and acclimated to enjoy each pull and delicate move without surprise fatigue.
Wind and light vary through the day as the cliff’s orientation catches the sun late morning through afternoon, making spring to early fall prime for climbing sessions. Weather in the Vail region can shift quickly, so carrying layers and monitoring forecasts is essential, especially as thunderstorms frequently roll in by afternoon during summer months. Bolts are fresh and trustworthy, so climbers can focus on the movement and beta rather than gear concerns.
Binky of the Mountains is not just a climb but a moment of connection—to the rock, to history, and to those who share this corner of the Colorado wilderness. It’s a reminder that adventure isn’t measured by length or height alone, but by the stories carried on the wind and the strength found in every hold you trust.
Whether you're stepping up from the beginner-friendly CC route or returning for another round of sport climbing in the Wolcott Crags, this route’s blend of approachable challenge and heartfelt dedication makes it a notable stop on your climbing itinerary.
While bolts provide secure protection, this high-elevation climb can surprise visitors with sudden weather changes. Be mindful of afternoon thunderstorms common in summer and ensure the rock is dry before attempting the route.
Approach via the forested trail to the Upper Tier; expect about a 15-minute hike from the parking area.
Start your session with the easier 5.6 route 'CC' located just to the left for warm-up before tackling Binky.
Bring layered clothing—mornings can be chilly and summer afternoons may bring fast-changing weather.
Stay hydrated and pace moves carefully—the high elevation affects endurance more than anticipated.
Equipped with five bolts leading to chain anchors, this route demands sport climbing gear including a dynamic rope and quickdraws. The fixed bolts provide solid protection, allowing climbers to focus on movement without worrying about gear placements.
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