"Binary Cracks offers a robust traditional crack climb on the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon with twists of hand and fist jams, solid protection, and an approachable multi-pitch format. Perfect for climbers eager to blend technique with straightforward access and a memorable natural setting."
Binary Cracks stands out as a rewarding traditional climb along the rugged walls of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This route invites climbers who appreciate the tactile satisfaction of hand and fist jams paired with reliable protection placements. Starting just right of the approach for That '70s Route, the climb initially offers an approachable 60-foot 5.8 crack pitch that leads you up a short buttress, offering a warm-up that flows smoothly into more challenging terrain. Whether you opt for this initial pitch or begin directly on the alternate start, Binary Cracks gives you roughly 200 feet of varied climbing by layering together multiple sections.
The crux pitch, rated 5.9, demands focus where the cracks thin out and begin to run parallel. Here, your jamming technique is tested but protected well by solid gear placements from small stoppers up to 4-inch cams, with an optional 6-inch for the alternate start. The climb’s character lies in this mix of crack sizes and angles—starting with offset cracks leading to a left-hand parallel crack that carries you steadily to a comfortable ledge.
The rock is textured and features flakes that add complexity and variety beyond simple jams, engaging you in movement that balances finesse with power. Climbers often note the manageable drag if you plan your belays carefully, though many prefer to keep the pitch breaks clean for safety and rest. Upon reaching the main ledge at approximately 150 feet, you face a choice: conclude here where the route officially ends or push upward through a mellow groove for an additional 50 feet, topping out near 200 feet depending on your route decisions.
Descending is straightforward but requires attention — a walk-off is possible from the ledge, but rappelling down the way you came via two 100-foot anchors, akin to the descent from Yellow Jersey route, offers more control and avoids loose terrain. The approach is short and direct, set in a canyon that holds both quiet solitude and scenic exposure, with vegetation clinging to the walls and the canyon floor inviting moments of reflection between pitches.
Preparation is key for this climb: reliable protection gear spanning small to large cams ensures security through the crack variations, and strong hands combined with steady footwork will keep you moving efficiently. It’s ideal to hit this climb in the spring through fall, avoiding the colder months when rock might be slick or icy, and early starts will give you the best light and temperature balance on the north-facing walls.
Binary Cracks delivers a true traditional climbing experience that’s both accessible and subtly challenging, perfectly suited for climbers ready to engage muscles and mind in Colorado’s striking canyon landscape.
While protection is solid, watch for rope drag when linking pitches and avoid loose rock near the top ledge. The descent can be tricky if attempting a walk-off—rappelling remains the safest method.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and ensure optimal rock temperatures.
Bring a full rack including #3 to #4 cams for best protection options.
Plan your belays to reduce rope drag; consider slinging ledges carefully.
Descending via rappel is safer than the walk-off due to loose terrain near the summit.
The route requires protection ranging from small stoppers up to 4-inch cams, with a 6-inch cam useful but not essential for the alternate start. Gear placements are generally solid and well-spaced, protecting both the approach crack and the crux pitch safely.
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