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Bin Laden's Cave: A Bold 5.9 PG13 Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
roof crack
runout
desert trad
single pitch
5.9 PG13
Joshua Tree
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bin Laden's Cave
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bin Laden's Cave tests your boldness with a tight roof crack just right of Rangers' Revenge at Joshua Tree’s East Wall South End. This short but intense 5.9 PG13 trad route rewards focused placements and a strong mindset, perfect for climbers ready to engage desert grit and runout terrain."

Bin Laden's Cave: A Bold 5.9 PG13 Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Bin Laden's Cave sits along the rugged East Wall South End within Joshua Tree’s Sheep Pass Area, a slice of desert climbing that calls for sharp focus and steady hands. The route stakes a claim about 50 feet to the right of the narrow corridor entrance that frames Rangers' Revenge, beginning with a tight, right-leaning crack beneath a roof that presses low overhead—an immediate test of patience and technique. From the first move, the climb demands respect, balancing precise hand jams with the awkward rhythm of navigating the low roof, keeping climbers keenly connected to the rock's stark texture and desert silence.

Joshua Tree’s sun-bleached granite here is rough and inviting, encouraging solid placements but requiring attentive gear management. The classic 5.9 PG13 rating hints at more than just technical moves—expect runouts that push confidence, where protection may be thin in spots but rewarding when found. This isn’t a climb for those chasing pure sport lines; the traditional rack you bring must cater to desert cracks—cams and nuts that fit the delicate widths found along the route.

Approaching Bin Laden's Cave involves a short but engaging hike through the Hall of Horrors area, weaving past spires and boulders scorched by the relentless sun. The ascent offers sweeping views back across the landscape—a rugged desert panorama punctuated by joshua trees and distant ridges. The trail to the base is straightforward, roughly a 15-20 minute walk from established parking, with dry dirt tracks keeping your boots dusty but spirits high.

Timing your climb here is key. Early morning starts are your ally to beat the desert heat and find the shaded rock faces still cool to the touch. Afternoon sessions risk encountering baking walls and overly loose rock fragments warmed by the sun’s glare. Spring and fall stand out as prime seasons, when temperate air enhances grip and climbing stamina.

Protection demands vigilance. Bring a full range of traditional gear—small to medium cams will be your go-to, along with solid nuts for the less obvious placements. The line rewards careful gear choices, with the roof crack especially requiring thought to ensure placements hold in the event of a fall. Being prepared for an occasional runout is part of the engagement here; the route tests both skill and mental composure.

Descent is straightforward—after topping out the single 50-foot pitch, a short walk off via established trails leads back to the trailhead. No rappel needed, making this route an accessible yet serious commitment for trad climbers eager to push their limits in one of California’s iconic desert climbing hubs. Be attentive to your surroundings—the rock is mostly sound but does show signs of desert wear, so test every hold before trusting it fully.

Bin Laden's Cave offers a direct, gritty experience—less about showy moves and more about committed climbing in an environment that challenges your pacing, gear placement, and respect for the desert’s unique texture and temperament. It’s a brief but memorable outing for those willing to engage its subtle threats and rewards.

Climber Safety

Protection placements near the roof are limited and require precision—make sure your cams are well seated before committing to moves. The rock is generally sound but desert weathering means some holds should be tested. Avoid climbing during peak heat to reduce risk of dehydration or grip loss. No rappel needed; descent trails are unmarked but clear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid harsh midday sun on the rock surface.

Pack full trad protection; the crack demands multiple cam sizes.

Test each hold before committing—rock is solid but weathered.

Expect potential runouts—trust your gear placements, not just the rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 grade here underscores more than technical moves—while the climbing is solidly in the 5.9 range, the protection scarcity elevates the mental demand. The route feels stiff relative to typical desert trad due to the low roof and tricky placements, pushing it beyond a soft 5.9 but without the heightened physical difficulty of harder climbs. Climbers familiar with Joshua Tree's desert cracks will find it comparable to other runout 5.9s in the area but should respect the PG13 caution.

Gear Requirements

Bring a typical Joshua Tree traditional rack including small to medium cams and nuts, as protection options along the route are limited and placements require careful selection, especially under the low roof section.

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Tags

roof crack
runout
desert trad
single pitch
5.9 PG13
Joshua Tree