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Big Spoon at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Welsford, Canada
bolt protected
crux mantle
crumbly arête
single pitch
technical footwork
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Big Spoon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Big Spoon is a short, punchy sport climb on a delicate arête at Cochrane Lane Cliffs. Its low crux requires precise footwork, while the crumbly upper section demands cautious movement, offering climbers a technical challenge in a serene forest setting."

Big Spoon at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Big Spoon at Cochrane Lane Cliffs is a focused punch of sport climbing that commands respect from the moment you clip in. The route’s defining challenge greets you early with a low crux that demands precision—a mantle onto a small shelf that tests your balance and confident footwork. As you push upwards, the climb shifts character, offering a clean arête that edges the upper section. Despite its inviting line, caution is necessary near the top; the rock can feel fragile in spots, reminding climbers to trust the bolts but tread softly with body positioning.

Set along the exposed face of Welsford’s Cochrane Lane Cliffs, Big Spoon spreads a compact 45 feet of vertical terrain over a single pitch, making it ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their technical sport skills without the commitment of extended routes. The cliff sits just outside the quiet town of Welsford, New Brunswick, surrounded by dense hardwood forests that frame each ascent and contribute to a surprisingly peaceful paddling down the local river after the climb.

Retaining a modest average star rating, Big Spoon is often chosen by experienced climbers seeking a crisp 5.10c/d that delivers a solid challenge in a natural setting. Since the climb relies entirely on fixed bolt protection, gear prep is simple, but climbers should double-check placements near the crumbly arête before trusting holds fully. The approach from roadside parking is straightforward, taking less than 15 minutes over well-trod paths, though the terrain can be slick with moss in wet weather. Timing your climb for mid-morning to mid-afternoon lets you avoid the cold shadows that can stiffen muscles here, especially outside summer.

This route rewards steady focus and patience—not flashy moves but consistent tension and control. By climbing Big Spoon, you engage directly with Cochrane Lane’s approachable yet unforgiving granite, wrapped in the green quiet of New Brunswick’s backcountry. It’s a route that, when climbed well, leaves a clear impression of tactical grace in compact form.

Climber Safety

Be cautious near the top arête where the rock shows signs of fragility; avoid aggressive moves on questionable holds. Weather can leave the approach trail slick, especially after rain, so tread carefully and allow extra time to reach the base safely.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid mossy, slick conditions on the approach trail.

Check weather reports; wet rock increases risk near the crumbly arête.

Use climbing shoes with good edging capability for the mantle crux.

Scout the bolt placements before the climb to gauge protection comfort.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c/d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c/d rating sits true but leans slightly toward a stiff challenge due to the low crux mantle that demands precise foot placement and body tension. Climbers familiar with neighboring routes at Cochrane Lane will find Big Spoon a brisk test of finesse rather than power, with a memorable, exposed finish that adds a mental edge.

Gear Requirements

The route relies solely on fixed bolts spaced for consistent protection. Bring a standard sport rack; no additional trad gear is needed. Watch for areas near the arête where the rock is crumbly—testing placements carefully is advised.

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Tags

bolt protected
crux mantle
crumbly arête
single pitch
technical footwork