"Big Moe on Moe Wall weaves a rewarding three-pitch ascent through varied crack systems and steady trad climbing. Its blend of technical moves and consistent protection makes it a solid option for climbers seeking a grounded yet engaging experience in New Brunswick’s wilderness."
Big Moe stretches out over 230 feet across three pitches on Moe Wall, offering climbers a solid introduction to the grit and grind of New Brunswick’s rugged granite. From the moment you step onto the base, the rock pulls you into a steady workout of crack climbing and diverse moves that demand both focus and finesse. The first pitch challenges you early with a crux near its base—a section where the cracks widen and grip choices get bolder. Protection here requires careful placement; gear can be fidgety with some pinches that test your confidence. A single bolt offers a reassuring anchor point through a stretch that might otherwise feel exposed. Moving past this, the climb settles into low-fifth-class climbing that leads you toward a tree ledge perched midway up the wall, marking the end of pitch two. At this ledge, a single dynamic move rated 5.7 calls for precise footwork and steady balance before the route eases up again.
The climb’s rhythm flows naturally, blending steady crack hand jams, fists, and occasional fingers that keep your hands working and your head clear. The granite here is solid, textured with enough roughness to provide consistent friction even when the air is damp. As you ascend, the forest below rustles with winds that seem to pulse alongside your efforts, while sweeping views of McQuirks Mountain expand your perspective beyond the immediate rock face.
Big Moe’s route offers a satisfying mix of physical challenge and accessible fun, ideal for those stepping into multi-pitch trad climbing in the region or looking for a route with enough variety to hold interest over its length. The straightforward approach and clear protection needs make this climb both manageable and memorable. Once at the top, the scene rewards you with quiet wilderness views and the growing sense of accomplishment that only comes from reading and managing the rock’s subtle demands. Descending by rappel is straightforward with well-equipped anchors, allowing you to pack up efficiently and reflect on the climb under the canopy of northern New Brunswick's ever-present pines.
Gear placements can be tricky on pitch one, with pinch holds that may not inspire full confidence. Climbers should be comfortable managing medium runouts and double-check placements frequently. Approach and descent are straightforward, but always verify anchor integrity before rappelling.
Bring a standard trad rack with cams up to 4"; larger are optional but not required.
Watch your placements through the slightly runout sections on pitch one to maintain confidence.
Use the tree ledge on pitch two as a solid rest before the crux move.
Rappel guides are bolted and reliable—be sure to double-check anchor setups on descent.
A single rack up to 4 inches suffices for protection—4s are handy but optional. One bolt is fixed on the first pitch to back up a longer runout section. Bolted anchors enable straightforward rappels back down the route.
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