"Big Love is a crisp and approachable sport climb in California’s Mormon Slab area. Navigate a textured face with a distinct crux, solid protection, and a straightforward descent that makes this one-pitch route ideal for those refining their 5.9 skills."
Big Love offers a focused, accessible sport climb that balances straightforward movement with a crisp crux nestled halfway up the route. Located in the sun-drenched Mormon Slab area of the San Bernardino Mountains, this 140-foot pitch invites climbers to engage a variety of textures—from clusters of smooth pebbles and cobbles to solid sandstone holds that demand precise footwork and steady confidence. The climbing begins by moving slightly right, weaving through a dense patch of rounded stone that almost dares you to test your balance, before the line straightens and tightens into a thinner, more technical section. This middle segment, the clear crux, requires a sharp eye for subtle features and a willingness to push firmly on smaller edges. Beyond this challenge, the route opens into more generous holds, guiding climbers leftward towards a comfortable ledge crowned with a two-bolt anchor.
The setting in Mormon Rocks offers an unpretentious, sturdy sandstone face that catches the sun, warming the stone and your spirit on cooler days. The approach is straightforward, a short trek over rocky desert terrain that prepares climbers mentally and physically for the solid, sustained climbing ahead. Given the route's moderate length, Big Love is a perfect choice for those looking to warm up or push their 5.9 skills against quality protection and an enjoyable movement style.
Essential gear includes a 60-meter rope, though a 70-meter rope adds security for rappel and lowering—particularly when descending to the left via the Sandstone Balls route. Bolts are spaced generously along the line, all 1/2 inch in diameter, with a total of 13 clips before reaching the two-bolt anchor. This protection arrangement offers peace of mind while encouraging technical climbing, especially in the crux section where precise clipping can be key.
Planning your day here means timing your climb to chase warmth in the winter months or early morning shade during peak summer heat. The southern exposure guarantees sunbathed rock by midday but offers a chance to avoid the hottest hours if you arrive early. Nearby San Bernardino city provides a reliable base for supplies and lodging, while the natural environment remains raw enough to feel remote yet accessible.
Big Love doesn’t promise high drama or extreme boldness, but its clear lines and well-maintained hardware offer satisfying movement and a touch of local character. The route’s straightforward descent—either by rappelling or lowering—allows climbers to descend safely and swiftly, wrapping up a focused day on excellent sandstone.
Whether you’re refining your sport climbing technique or seeking a reliable line for a day trip, Big Love at Mormon Slab stands out for its clean holds, direct route-finding, and grounded setting. This single-pitch climb invites climbers to engage thoughtfully with the rock, balancing adventure and practical simplicity in one smooth package.
While protection is well spaced, the pebble sections can feel a bit loose underfoot, so keep careful balance and avoid dislodging debris. The descent requires attention when lowering to the Sandstone Balls route; a 70-meter rope ensures a smooth transition and reduces rope drag on the rappel.
Bring a 70-meter rope for easier rappelling and lowering options.
Aim for early morning climbs in summer to avoid sun-soaked sandstone heat.
Footwear with sticky rubber and edging precision improves control on pebbly sections.
Double-check bolts before clipping, as the line crosses areas with varied pebble size and texture.
13 bolts spaced for confident clipping with a two-bolt 1/2" anchor atop a ledge. A 60-meter rope is sufficient for the climb, but a 70-meter rope provides extra length for rappel or lowering down via the Sandstone Balls route to the left.
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