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Big Daddy's Ramp at Nightmare Rock: A Rain-Friendly Trad Gem

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
trad
single pitch
rain friendly
protected
forest approach
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Big Daddy's Ramp
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Big Daddy's Ramp is a compact trad climb in Squamish’s Murrin Park, perfect for wet days when shelter and steady protection are key. Its single crack line offers finger-to-hand size placements and a manageable 5.9 grade, making it a practical and inviting route regardless of drizzle or downpour."

Big Daddy's Ramp at Nightmare Rock: A Rain-Friendly Trad Gem

Big Daddy's Ramp stands as a dependable choice when Squamish skies open up and wetter weather sets the tone. This short, single-pitch trad line offers a straightforward crack system that welcomes climbers seeking both shelter and challenge when typical routes become slippery or unsafe. The route runs about 50 feet and occupies a prominent section of Nightmare Rock, located within the accessible and beloved Murrin Park.

Approaching Big Daddy's Ramp, you’ll move through dense coastal forest that holds moisture in its needle-thin leaves, the air heavy with pine and damp stone. The rain drums steadily against the rock’s surface here, yet climbers report staying surprisingly dry because the natural overhangs provide shelter from the downpour. This amplified protection allows a rare opportunity to climb out of the weather, ideal for days when other routes are less forgiving.

The crack itself invites a finger-to-hand size rack, demanding careful placements rather than hammering bolts — a nod to trad climbing’s old-school spirit in a heavily visited area. Its 5.9 difficulty is approachable by intermediate climbers looking to test crack technique without pushing into strenuous territory. The route’s grade tends to feel straightforward, without hidden crux sections, making it a confidence-builder or a practical option to hone crack climbing skills.

In terms of environment, the rock shows the classic local blend of granite’s solid friction with a textured surface that challenges your grip while reassuring your feet. Wind chills can be felt more keenly on exposed sections, which means layering for warmth and waterproof gear is a smart move.

Access from Murrin Park is quick and well-marked. A brief hike shuttles you through moist forest terrain, with roots and rocks slick from rain, but the trail remains manageable and direct. GPS coordinates place you south-west of the central parking lot, where easy parking and maintained facilities aid in planning a smooth outing.

Big Daddy's Ramp rewards climbers who come prepared with a rack focused on finger to hand-sized protection. The typical rack works well, but anticipate carefully testing placements as the route does not feature fixed gear. Given the single-pitch length, you’ll be on the ground quickly, making it an accessible option for those balancing time or changing weather forecasts.

Though modest in size, this line benefits from the surrounding wilderness atmosphere. The area’s natural water channels seem to pulse with energy—streams and drips from the rain daring you forward—while cedar and fir trees sway alongside the rock wall, adding to a sense of quiet companionship. The climb captures the rhythm of the coastal climate: relentless yet forgiving.

In preparation, bring sturdy shoes with dependable grip for wet rock, wear layered clothing to handle chills off and on the wall, and pack waterproof gear. Start early to maximize daylight and take advantage of the route’s natural shelter before afternoon weather shifts. Also, carrying a helmet is advised, as wet conditions can loosen debris in the forested rock face.

Big Daddy's Ramp is an essential waypoint for Squamish’s trad climbers aiming to keep moving despite inclement weather. Its manageable challenge, combined with unique shelter from rain, make it a practical and rewarding choice when other climbs are off-limits. Whether sharpening crack technique or simply seeking a dry spot to climb in a soggy day, this route offers an inviting balance of nature’s moods and climber’s needs.

Climber Safety

Be alert to loose rock in wet conditions, especially near the base and within the approach forest. The short pitch reduces exposure but a helmet and cautious gear placements are essential to stay safe on damp, slick granite.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber for wet rock traction.

Start early in the day to take advantage of daylight and favorable weather windows.

Layer waterproof and insulating clothing to manage changing conditions on the wall.

Use caution on the forested approach trail after rain—it can be slippery with exposed roots and rocks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Big Daddy's Ramp feels fair and straightforward. The route avoids forced crux moves, making it accessible for intermediate trad climbers looking to build confidence in crack gear placements. Compared to other local 5.9s, it leans toward the easier side of the spectrum with less pump and technical demands.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on finger to hand-sized protection since the route demands precise trad placements with no fixed gear. A helmet is strongly recommended due to potential falling debris in wet conditions.

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Tags

finger crack
trad
single pitch
rain friendly
protected
forest approach