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Big Bad Wolf: A Sport Climb Challenge in El Potrero Chico

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
sport climbing
crack
5.9
single pitch
Los Lobos Wall
El Potrero Chico
bolted
technical finish
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Big Bad Wolf
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Big Bad Wolf offers a well-balanced 80-foot sport climb on El Potrero Chico’s Los Lobos Wall. With a smooth slab start and a technical crack finish, it delivers approachable movement paired with a focused challenge for climbers seeking a solid 5.9 experience."

Big Bad Wolf: A Sport Climb Challenge in El Potrero Chico

Big Bad Wolf stands as a compelling introduction to the sport climbing landscape of El Potrero Chico, offering a blend of approachable movement and a sharp technical finish. The route delivers 80 feet of moderately paced climbing, beginning with smooth slabs that invite rhythm and focus. As you ascend, the rock’s character shifts — the surface tightens, and your hands seek out a distinctive crack near the top that demands both precision and patience. This feature breaks the flow with a tricky sequence that tests finger strength and body positioning, rewarding those ready to read the rock and trust their technique. The climb is fully bolted, making protection straightforward, though the top section asks for thoughtful clipping as you manage the crux.

Approaching Big Bad Wolf, the arid air carries the warmth of the sun-drenched canyon, while the limestone walls reflect a rugged beauty that's vivid in the morning light. The soundscape is alive with the rustling of scrub bushes and the occasional bird call—a brisk reminder that this wall is carved by nature’s persistent hand. The single pitch climbs out of a modest ledge, surrounded by panoramic views of the canyon’s expansive rock face and desert floor stretching beyond.

For climbers visiting El Potrero Chico, this route combines the appeal of a manageable 5.9 sport climb with just enough challenge to keep you focused, especially near the top crack feature. The climb suits a variety of skill levels, offering a comfortable lead for less experienced climbers while providing a technical moment to sharpen those crack climbing moves. Given its position on the Los Lobos Wall, Big Bad Wolf benefits from excellent sun exposure in the morning, making it an ideal pick for early day sessions before the afternoon heat intensifies.

Successfully navigating this route means preparing for a dynamic experience. Bring shoes with good edging capabilities to handle the slab start, as well as sticky rubber that will support your delicate crack holds near the summit. Hydration and sun protection are essential in the canyon’s dry environment, especially during warmer months. Accessing the climb involves a short approach along well-marked trails through loose desert terrain, so sturdy footwear is recommended. After topping out, the descent is straightforward with a single rope rappel or an easy walk back down the approach trail. Keep an eye on the rock condition, as some sun-exposed sections can warm rapidly, impacting chalk effectiveness and slip potential.

Whether you’re ticking off your first 5.9 or adding a cruxy challenge to your El Potrero Chico agenda, Big Bad Wolf presents a balanced outing with a crisp line and reliable protection. Its blend of moderate technical climbing and standout crack movement leaves an impression without overreaching, marking it as a must-ride for sport climbers exploring this famed Mexican crag.

Climber Safety

Watch for sun-heated rock on upper sections that can reduce friction, especially near the tricky crack. Bolts are secure but clip carefully to avoid rope drag. Approach trail can be loose—good footwear is essential to manage footing.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early for cooler temperatures and excellent morning light.

Wear sticky rubber shoes to navigate the crack sequence effectively.

Bring plenty of water and sun protection for the desert environment.

Use a single rope rappel to safely descend after the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rating holds true as a solid 5.9 with a crux near the top crack that adds a technical layer to an otherwise steady climb. The grade isn’t padded but stays accessible for a confident intermediate climber. Compared to nearby routes, Big Bad Wolf offers a cleaner sport experience with fewer loose holds, making it a reliable choice for refining crack skills in this area.

Gear Requirements

Fully bolted route requiring quickdraws for smooth clipping. Bolts are well-placed but the top crack demands careful positioning during clipping.

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Tags

sport climbing
crack
5.9
single pitch
Los Lobos Wall
El Potrero Chico
bolted
technical finish