"Bicho Borracho challenges climbers with a crisp slab ascent that rewards precision and patience. Featuring a standout crux at the second bolt, this single-pitch sport climb offers both technical intrigue and reliable protection in one of El Potrero Chico’s sunlit arenas."
Bicho Borracho offers an exhilarating sport climb set on the clean, bright faces of El Potrero Chico, one of Northern Mexico's premier climbing destinations. This one-pitch route stretches 140 feet, inviting climbers into a sustained challenge where technical precision meets physical endurance. The climb begins on a deceptively smooth slab, demanding confident footwork on minimal holds as you ascend toward the second bolt. Here, a sharp crux move awaits—requiring a decisive body shift that tests your balance and composure. Beyond this pivotal point, the angle eases but climbing remains intricate, with tricky sequences that engage finger strength and mental focus right up to the anchor.
The rock quality here is consistently solid, with pockets and edges that reward patient movement and careful route reading. On clear days, the wall basks in sunlight, highlighting the textured surface and offering expansive views of the rugged El Potrero Chico walls pushing skyward. The environment around the climb carries the character of northern Mexico’s rough desert foothills, where dry air and distant cliffs frame your ascent.
Safety is paramount on Bicho Borracho. The route holds a generous string of bolts, providing secure protection throughout, though the long descent demands particular care when lowering—movement must be controlled to avoid rope drag or unintended swings in the exposure. Having solid anchors and a good communication plan with your belayer is essential.
For climbers seeking a demanding sport route that combines technical climbing with a sharp, sustained rhythm, Bicho Borracho stands out. While the grade sits at 5.12a, the crackling intensity of the slab and the careful foot placements needed make this route a memorable test of control and technique, fitting seamlessly within the rocky grandeur of El Potrero Chico.
Prepare with sticky rubber shoes for precise edging, and plan your timing to climb during cooler parts of the day to avoid overheating in the sun-exposed sections. Hydration and sun protection are critical in this dry setting, with little natural shade available once you start the ascent. Whether targeting your first 5.12 or adding a challenging slab to your repertoire, Bicho Borracho demands respect and rewards focus with a climb that’s as mentally engaging as it is physically exacting.
Maintain focus during the long lowering process—rope drag and swing hazards can become serious if managed carelessly. The rock here is sound, but caution on the slab’s smooth sections is required to avoid slips, especially if approached during hot, sweaty conditions.
Start early to avoid midday heat on the sun-exposed slab.
Double-check locking carabiners before lowering—this route requires controlled descents.
Bring a sun hat and plenty of water; shade is minimal on this face.
Scout the approach on well-marked trails and allow 20 minutes from the parking area.
Generous bolting provides solid protection throughout. Climbing shoes with sticky rubber aid precise edging on the mostly blank slab. A standard sport rack with a personal anchor is sufficient for this single pitch.
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