"B.F.F. delivers a rewarding 100-foot sport climb on solid granite within the San Bernardino Mountains. Tackle a prominent roof with confident moves and finish on an inviting face with reliable protection and striking mountain views."
Set against the rugged backdrop of the San Bernardino Mountains, B.F.F. stands out as a concise yet rewarding sport climb that packs a full hundred feet of sustained challenge. The approach leads you to the far left bolted belay on Middle Tier's left side, a section of Frustration Creek known for its solid rock and classic routes. The climb invites you onto a face that leans gently left toward an unmistakable roof. This roof demands your attention; it’s less imposing than it appears but requires a confident pull to negotiate. Once past this feature, the angle eases, guiding you up a clean face to the anchor anchored just left of a weathered stump.
The rock quality here is reliable, with bolts spaced to provide a secure line that encourages steady movement without interruptions. As you climb, the granite’s texture offers enough friction to maintain control, even when the angle steepens around the roof. This route is ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills with a straight-forward line that balances challenge and flow.
Midday sun will warm the wall, so starting early can help you avoid overheating. The climb’s location within the Highway 38 Crags provides a remarkable sense of isolation, wrapped in pine and fir scents carried by the breeze. It’s a quiet spot where the occasional call of a distant bird breaks the stillness, reminding you that you’re high in a living landscape.
Getting to B.F.F. requires a short hike along a well-marked trail, with the fixed line helping navigate the final approach. Although the climb is a single pitch, the surrounding area offers additional lines if you want to extend your day. Bring sport climbing gear focused on quickdraws, as bolts and a solid chain anchor await you at the top. With a modest rating of 5.9, this climb is approachable for confident beginners yet technical enough to engage intermediate climbers.
Remember to bring sufficient water and sun protection, as shade is limited once you start climbing. Footwear with precise edging ability will make negotiating the roof and fingertip pockets significantly smoother. B.F.F. is a prime example of the San Bernardino’s accessible rock—a focused burst of movement that leaves you wanting more, wrapped in the raw beauty of southern California’s mountainous terrain.
The fixed line on the approach aids in negotiating steep ground, but loose debris can be present—mind your footing. The roof and ledge require careful foot placement to avoid slips; helmets are recommended to protect against occasional rockfall.
Start early to avoid the midday heat; the wall lacks shade in the afternoon.
Wear shoes with good edging to confidently pull through the roof section.
Hydrate well—there’s limited water access near the crag.
Use the fixed line on approach to safely navigate the steep terrain.
Essential gear includes a full rack of quickdraws for the bolted line and a harness suited for sport climbing. The chain anchor is solid and positioned left of a distinct stump, so bring a locking carabiner for secure lowering. Approach benefits from the fixed line for safe and easy access to the belay station.
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