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Beware the Tides of March

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
friction slab
trad protection
single pitch
technical
Squamish
bold moves
less trafficked
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Beware the Tides of March
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Beware the Tides of March challenges climbers with a steep, friction-dependent slab on the right side of Seal Cove. This underrated Squamish trad route offers a demanding 80-foot pitch blending precise footwork and sustained tension, ideal for those ready to read the rock beyond polished holds."

Beware the Tides of March

Located on the rugged right flank of Seal Cove, Beware the Tides of March is a single-pitch test piece that challenges climbers with a steep, slabby face requiring precise footwork and confident friction techniques. This route demands attention and respect from the outset—the rock here doesn’t just sit quietly but leans forward, daring you to commit to every subtle smear and delicate balance point. Access involves a gritty scramble up and right from the top of Swept Away, an effort rewarded by the chance to engage with one of Squamish’s more understated yet demanding face climbs.

While graded 5.11a, many climbers find the difficulty creeping higher, especially on this often neglected slab. The rock’s texture shifts underfoot, and patches of dirt remind you that this line sees little traffic; preparation for gritty encounters and less-than-perfect holds is essential. Protection is a mix of bolts and strategic cam placements along a horizontal break—be ready to place cams carefully, as the pro isn’t abundant but is sufficient to keep risk reasonable if you trust your gear.

The route’s length, about 80 feet, packs a concentrated challenge with minimal room to rest, emphasizing sustained friction moves and technical precision over brute force. The exposure to shifting weather at Seal Cove brings a fresh edge, with breezes pushing around the bay and the nearby water’s pulse audible below. The surrounding landscape opens into views of Squamish’s steep granite cliffs, grounding the climb in a place that feels alive—not just a wall, but a meeting place between earth and ocean.

Due to its exposure and condition, timing your ascent is key—dry days with stable temperatures offer the best chance for reliable friction, especially since this slab looses its grip when damp or cold. Bringing shoes with excellent sensitivity and sticking power will improve your chances of sticking those small edges and smears. The approach involves uneven terrain and loose stone; sturdy footwear and careful foot placement will keep the journey safe and efficient.

In all, Beware the Tides of March is suited for climbers seeking a demanding trad challenge with a nuanced character that rewards finesse and mental focus as much as physical ability. This is not a route crowded with crowds or polished holds, but one that invites persistent climbers to read the rock and respond with measured tactics. It’s a quieter corner of Squamish climbing where the environment feels interactive, from the subtle shifts underfoot to the persistent pull of the tides nearby, creating a climbing experience both focused and elemental.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of loose rock and dirt patches, especially on the approach scramble. Protection is adequate but sparse along the horizontal; careful gear placement and a solid rack of cams are a must to manage fall potential safely.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach involves scrambling up and right from the top of Swept Away—wear shoes with good grip for unstable terrain.

Dry, warm days enhance friction; avoid climbing when the slab is damp or cold as it can become slick.

Bring tape or brush to clear dirt spots if possible, as some holds accumulate grime due to low traffic.

Double-check cam placements in the horizontal break; gear quality can vary and protecting the crux is essential.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11a grade here tends to feel a touch stiffer than typical Squamish slabs, primarily due to sustained friction moves on a steeper angle and less polished rock. The route demands consistent foot precision with a subtle crux midway; compared to nearby slabs, this line leans harder and requires a bit more conviction on smears, making it a solid step up for local trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

Mixed protection using bolts combined with cams placed in a horizontal break. Expect some tricky placements requiring solid gear judgment. Bring a set of cams focusing on small to medium sizes.

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Tags

friction slab
trad protection
single pitch
technical
Squamish
bold moves
less trafficked