"A sharply technical sport climb tucked into Devil's Glen, Beware the Ginsu offers one pitch of sustained face and arête climbing with a demanding crux. Ideal for climbers ready to engage their full toolkit on rarely repeated terrain."
Beware the Ginsu commands attention from the moment you set eyes on its striking face and sharp arête in Ontario’s Devil's Glen. This single-pitch sport climb challenges you with a sequence of intricate moves, demanding steady focus and a diverse skill set. The route begins tucked inside a dihedral, where fingers dance on thin holds, setting the tone for the technicality ahead. Pushing through a roof section, you engage with subtle edges and tiny crimps that require precise footwork and body tension. Emerging from this tight zone, the climb shifts onto the arête itself, where thinner holds test your composure amidst occasional small rest spots—precious seconds to regroup before the crux.
What follows is a traverse that edges toward bolts on the right labeled “Left Hand…”, where the holds tighten into challenging slopers, demanding commitment and confidence. The final moves veer into a small dihedral with unconventional sequences that ask for creative problem solving and controlled strength before reaching the anchor. The approach to this finish is less a graceful dance and more a measured negotiation with the rock’s quirks.
This climb is not often repeated, partly due to its somewhat intimidating character and the significant change in the starting holds after a large rockfall in the summer of 2017. Originally rated 10d, the current assessment moves toward 5.11a—reflecting the sharper demands for finesse and power. It’s a bold test that rewards climbers ready to embrace a full bag of tricks, combining face, arête, and technical dihedral moves all in one tight pitch.
Set within the scenic Devil’s Glen area, the route is an adventurous addition to Ontario South Bouldering and Rock, offering visitors a chance to push limits in a rugged limestone environment. Mix this with moderate approach distances and the area's characteristic cool shade, and you get a climb that balances pure athletic challenge with a refreshing outdoor experience. For those targeting 5.11 sport lines that blend complexity with exposure, Beware the Ginsu is a rewarding effort—an honest piece of rock climbing that demands your best.
Practical details: bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws, and helmet recommended given the history of rockfall. Timing your climb during the cooler months or shaded periods of the day will keep your hands sticky and your energy sustained. Access involves a well-marked approach trail through forested terrain that’s manageable but should be approached with care especially after rain. Getting on this climb prepared means more than strength—it’s mental calculation paired with practiced technique under the cool, watchful gaze of Devil’s Glen.
The rockfall at the starting dihedral means helmet use is critical. While the bolts are solid, be cautious on the roof section where holds can be thin and placements delicate. Avoid climbing immediately after heavy rain to minimize slip risk on slick holds.
Wear shoes with sensitive edging to handle thin crimps and slopers.
Climb during morning or late afternoon to avoid direct sun and keep holds cool.
Carry extra quickdraws to clip bolts efficiently and reduce swing on the traverse.
Approach trail is steady but watch footing off the main path, especially after rain.
The route is protected by bolts with reliable anchors. A standard set of quickdraws is sufficient, and a helmet is advised due to past rockfall incidents near the start.
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