"Betwixt'em presents a compelling 5.9 trad climb on Sundance Buttress, threading five pitches of crack climbing and solid protection. This classic route blends technical moves with accessible exposure, offering a rewarding adventure for climbers ready to engage with Colorado’s rugged vertical terrain."
Betwixt'em carves its path through the rugged sandstone faces of Sundance Buttress, inviting climbers into an engaging trilogy of pitches that blend crack climbing finesse with impeccable natural protection. Located on the storied Lumpy Ridge near Estes Park, Colorado, this 550-foot route unfolds across five pitches of solid 5.9 climbing, weaving through vertical cracks and corners that test both technique and mental focus. The initial pitch eases you into the climb with a 5.7 crack that demands precise finger jams, setting a rhythm for the more technical moves ahead. From its blocky belay ledge, the climb shifts into an especially rewarding second pitch — vertical hand cracks ascend over dark knobs and flakes, offering excellent natural protection and a route that rewards patience and thoughtful gear placement.
The route captures the essence of classic Colorado traditional climbing — exposed but accessible, challenging without being overwhelming. Climbers experience a steady gain in exposure as the route ascends, with each pitch showcasing distinct rock features that keep the movements varied and fresh. The corridor between Mainliner and Sidetrack feels alive, as the surrounding cliffs seem to lean in, daring you forward while the high-altitude air sharpens your senses.
Protection on Betwixt'em follows the standard Lumpy Ridge setup: a solid rack of stoppers complemented by nuts and cams up to size #4 Friends. The quality of placements stands out, especially on the second pitch, where flaring cracks and knobs give ample opportunities to secure runouts with confidence. While the route is bolstered by reliable gear, the 5.6 ramp on the first pitch includes some runout sections that reward cautious climbing and steady footwork.
Accessing the base of Betwixt'em involves a moderately paced approach through forested trails carpeted with pine needles and dotted with wildflowers, just west of Estes Park. The walk-in offers a transition from the bustle of town to the quiet grit of the ridge, preparing climbers mentally and physically for the sustained effort ahead.
Timing your climb here matters — the eastern exposure catches the morning sun, so early starts help avoid afternoon heat and afternoon thunderstorms common in the region. Bring plenty of water, wear breathable layering, and be ready for variable wind conditions typical of this alpine environment.
Downclimbing or rappelling off the final anchors returns you safely to the trail below, with some exposed sections requiring attentiveness. The route’s position within Lumpy Ridge places it in a fragile ecosystem — pack out all gear and leave no trace to help this climbing gem endure for the next generation of adventurers.
Betwixt'em delivers a compelling blend of thoughtful crack climbing and natural beauty. It's an ideal choice for trad climbers eager to experience a classic Colorado route that rewards smarts, steady nerves, and respect for the mountains. Whether you're eyeing your first 5.9 or refining your crack techniques, this climb offers a memorable day of vertical challenge with sweeping views above Estes Park.
Some sections include runout ramping at lower grades, and belay ledges can be compact, so maintain focus on gear placements and situational awareness, especially during transitions between pitches. Weather can shift quickly, so be prepared for alpine storms that affect rock slickness and safety.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the summer months.
Use breathable layers to handle variable alpine temperatures and winds.
Water supply on approach is limited; carry sufficient hydration for the day.
Check beta on rappel stations before descending to ensure safety.
A well-rounded rack is essential: bring a full set of stoppers complemented by cams up to a #4 Friend. Protection is generally solid with excellent placements on vertical cracks and knobs, though some sections feature runout ramps requiring cautious gear placement.
Upload your photos of Betwixt'em and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.