"Between the Thighs offers a distinctive 5-pitch trad climb on Moro Rock, combining moderate 5.8 slab and crack climbing with bold exposure. This route rewards confident climbers with sweeping views and a memorable climb through Sequoia’s rugged granite."
Between the Thighs slices through the upper middle section of Moro Rock, offering a spirited and exposed trad climb that balances moderate difficulty with plenty of character. This five-pitch route stands out as a reliable challenge for climbers who want to summit Moro from either the Zocalo ledge or the base, but it demands a confident hand at 5.8 — the slab moves don’t allow for hesitation. Arriving on the route requires climbing another 5.8 approach climb, so you’re already stepping into a day of sustained effort and exposure.
From the approach at the right (south) edge of Zocalo ledge, two bolts with rappel rings mark the anchor, signaling the start of a sharp crack that instantly grabs your focus. The crack moves swiftly into a small dike roughly twenty feet up where pro placements become critical; higher gear (from .3 to .5 inches) will be your lifeline. The route then transitions into a right-leaning dike traverse leading into a corner system, which you follow to a broad ledge—here you’ll either trust the established bolts or build your own anchor on the right side.
The second pitch pushes the moderate envelope with a 5.6 off-width section that demands solid technique and persistence, moving into a hand-sized horizontal crack for protection before tackling a technical, exposed 5.8 slab crux. This section feels especially committing—no blank faces to bail on. If you’re on a 70-meter rope, you’ll appreciate how this pitch stretches it out fully; a 60-meter rope cuts the traverse short, forcing an awkward belay setup beneath some rock outcroppings.
After surmounting the challenging approach pitches, the route proper begins with a right-slanting finger crack that transitions into a dihedral and culminates in a closing book feature, punctuated with a solid fist crack. This pitch ranks your climbing rhythm as you seek placements and balance while moving upward to an alcove belay. The second pitch is shorter but steeped in exposure, traversing beneath a roof capped with cracks that offer escape from beneath it. Pulling around the roof is a satisfying move, releasing you onto the broad Patio Ledge—the final prize for your effort.
The setting offers more than just the climb—expect clear, sweeping views from the ledges and a sense of place within Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park’s austere grandeur. The rock feels solid but demands respect; precise footwork on slab and crack technique make the difference here.
Gear-wise, doubles in finger sizes to 3 inches cover the pro needs. Two 60-meter ropes are ideal for rappelling, though a 60m and a 70m rope configuration can work if you manage your belays carefully. Approach terrain is exposed and straightforward but keep an eye on weather and temperature—sun hits the rock strongly by midday.
Local climbers recommend starting early, so you avoid heat and tourist foot traffic on Moro Rock’s summit paths. Footwear with stiff soles helps maintain edge friction on the slab moves. Hydration is essential: the ascent is long and exposed, with little opportunity to refill. Patience on the off-width and slab transitions pays off, as the route rewards methodical climbing and cool heads.
Though modest in rating, the route's exposure and technical sections demand respect and preparation. Arriving at the Patio Ledge, you’ll have a remarkable moment to appreciate your ascent, watching visitors linger on the summit above, the rush of accomplishment mingling with the natural serenity of this iconic granite monolith.
Keep alert for potential loose rock on ledges and at anchor points, especially during the approach pitches. The slab sections require clean, confident foot placements — hesitating could lead to slips. Weather can turn quickly; avoid climbing when rock is wet. The multi-pitch rappel demands two ropes of adequate length for safe descent.
Start early to avoid peak heat and busy summit crowds.
Use stiff-soled climbing shoes for better friction on slab sections.
Manage your rope well: a 70m rope makes the second pitch more manageable.
Watch for loose rock around anchors and tread carefully on ledges.
Bring double sets of cams from fingers to 3 inches to protect the varied crack sizes, along with two ropes—either two 60-meter ropes or a 60-meter paired with a 70-meter for longer rappels and traverses.
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