"Berrycup invites climbers into a shallow right-facing corner where precise gear placements and calculated moves craft a focused trad challenge. Its single pitch balances committing sequences with accessible protection for those ready to test their technique in Squamish."
Berrycup stands as a bold single-pitch traditional climb tucked into the Lower Malamute area in Squamish, British Columbia. Its reputation for requiring delicate footwork and precise gear placements marks it as a worthy challenge for climbers craving a technical experience beyond straightforward crimps and jugs. The route traces a shallow right-facing corner, coaxing climbers to engage with subtle holds that demand both patience and finesse. This corner doesn’t shout for attention; instead, it quietly dares you to balance commitment with control, especially as you progress toward a bolt that sits just out of easy reach. Grabbing this bolt is a pivotal moment—attempting it free can push the grade into 5.11d territory with a few tricky moves, while aiders can bypass the hardest sequence if preferred.
The climb flows from the corner onto inviting face holds, shifting leftward toward a solid anchor. Most of the moves land in the 5.10a/b range, offering a sustained feel without major rest stances, so your stamina and precision gear placements matter here. The protection is straightforward with a standard rack up to 2-inch cams, but be prepared with a selection of smaller pieces to handle more sensitive placements that require committing moves. A yellow alien cam is a smart addition if you plan to aid the bolt or want that extra security before tackling the crux. Once past the corner and bolt, the route eases slightly, but the attention to detail remains.
Accessing Berrycup means entering the Lower Malamute sector, which despite its closure status in recent seasons, remains a landmark in Squamish’s climbing history. The approach involves moderate bushwhacking from the Malamute Trailhead, with a rough trail that sometimes challenges navigation. Be prepared for uneven footing and brush that presses in, so sturdy boots and a GPS device will save time and frustration. Once at the base, the granite is clean and inviting, revealing the route’s features with a cool, granite grip that Squamish is known for.
Timing your climb for late spring through early fall is ideal when the wall receives dappled sun, warming the rock without baking it. The corner’s orientation shields you from harsh afternoon sun, offering comfortable conditions even on warmer days. Descending Berrycup is equally straightforward, where a rappel from a reliable anchor to the left leads you safely back to the ground. Always double-check your anchor integrity before lowering off to avoid surprises.
Berrycup demands a mix of committed placements and strategic pacing, making it a fulfilling option for climbers comfortable with trad grading in the 5.11 range who enjoy problem-solving on stone. Its blend of technical moves, solid protection, and rewarding lines makes it an essential stop for those looking to push their limits in Squamish’s vibrant trad scene.
The small gear placements require confidence and precision—any loose or poor cams can elevate risk during the crux. The approach trail is uneven and can be saturated in wet conditions, increasing slip hazards. Also, be mindful that this area has been closed seasonally; verify access status before visiting.
Approach can be brushy and uneven; sturdy boots and GPS navigation help.
Consider aiding the bolt if free moves feel too reachy or risky.
Climb in spring to early fall for optimal sun exposure and moderate temperatures.
Double-check the rap anchor on rappel; it's solid but always verify.
Bring a standard trad rack up to 2 inches, with a focus on extra small cams for delicate placements. A yellow alien cam proves useful for aiding or securing the critical pocket near the bolt. Prepare for a few committing moves on small gear.
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